Gabay’s 10 to try

Drilling down

Regional character is also important. Baccino emphasises that the ‘regional Côtes de Provence appellations are appellations de terroir, designed to highlight the range and complexity of Provence wines’. These regions add to the diversity: tight, mineral reds from the volcanic soils of Fréjus; La Londe’s lean, saline, mineral reds; Pierrefeu’s rich fruit and minerality; and Ste-Victoire’s clean, fresh acidity from limestone soils. However, Adeline de Barry of Château de St-Martin is concerned that ‘most consumers hardly understand Provence as a region, let alone the nuances of its different appellations’.

Terroir and altitude are buzzwords around Provence now. François Miglio at Château Gasqui, one of the few biodynamic producers in Provence, is enthusiastic. ‘The variations in terroir are the key to bringing out the unique character of the region with its complex geology, range of microclimates and different altitudes, going up to nearly 500m.’ Faulkner believes that ‘different regional styles will start to become more evident’ and that ‘more Rolle will be planted in the cooler (and higher altitude) hinterland areas to achieve more aromatic freshness’.

With a high percentage of wines sold locally, smaller producers rarely export enough to become well known. This makes their reds and whites – especially at the top end – a niche product, often only discovered by the discerning customer. What attracted Robin Yapp in the 1970s, says his son Jason, was ‘the discovery that there were great wines coming out of Provence, by visionaries such at Trévallon, Richeaume and La Canorgue’. Although prices have risen, often driven by pressure from property prices, as well as improved quality, good wines still represent excellent value for money, with, according to Yapp ‘plenty of hidden gems to be discovered, which are only expensive if compared to cheap Provence rosés’. His list places equal value on red, white and ‘aspirational’ rosé from the region. Baccino agrees. For him, the cost of land in Provence makes it logical for producers to concentrate on higher quality.

Darlington sees scope for growth: ‘I’ll run a marathon in a squirrel costume if red and white wines from Provence become even half as big as the region’s rosé. But there’s definitely scope for making a bigger deal of them than we currently do in this country.’

Let’s look forward to seeing that squirrel costume at a future marathon!

Elizabeth Gabay MW lives in southeast France and writes on wine, food and history with a focus on Provence and rosé

Domaine de Pibarnon, Bandol 2015

96 £ 28 Les Caves de Pyrènes, Vin Cognito North-facing slopes on limestone provide lively acidity. Clairette gives fragrant floral aromas with ripe white peach, while the Bourboulenc offers backbone and minerality. A delightful wine. Drink 2016-2020 Alcohol 13.5%

Clos Ste- Magdaleine, Bel Arme, Cassis 2014

96 £ 20 Yapp Bros Marsanne dominant, aged in cement tanks and eggs. Fine chalky acidity emphasises the creamy, herby quality of this wine. Ripe garrigue-scented fruit, hints of white peach and a salty mineral finish. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 13%

Château Constantin, Papillon, Luberon 2014

93 £ 16 AC Gaillie, Love Wine, Museum Wines, Williams Chase Australian winemaker Dale Clarke has brought out floral and white peach aromas with round, creamy white peach fruit and vibrant, wellintegrated acidity from this blend of Vermentino and Viognier. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13%

Château St- Martin, Comtesse, Cotes de Provence 2013

93 £ 19.95 (2014) Vagabond Wines Ripe, honeyed fruit with sweet oak balanced by mineral acidity and a salty finish. An intriguing blend of honeyed sweetness and bright acidity. Drink 2016-2017 Alc 13.5%

Domaine de Trevallon, Les Alpilles 2005

97 £75 Yapp Bros Amazing red berry fruit and savoury tobacco aromas. Fresh leafy acidity on the palate, full of vibrant redcurrants, raspberries and blue black hedgerow fruits. The tannins are still very firm but beautifully balanced with the fruit. Drink 2016-2025 Alc 13%