Spurrier’s World
Decanter’s globetrotting consultant editor gives us a round-up of recent tastings, his views on current issues in the wine world and top bottles to drink or keep
Paris 1976-2016
‘Look back in wonder’ was the theme of a lunch and a dinner at Macéo restaurant in Paris on 25 May, a day after the 40th anniversary of the now-famous blind tasting that my L’Académie du Vin wine school organised, to show nine of France’s best palates our pick of Chardonnays and Cabernet Sauvignons from California alongside the benchmarks from Burgundy and Bordeaux. From 12-28 May, I was involved in continuous re-creations and celebrations of the Judgement of Paris on both sides of the Atlantic, all well documented in our June 2016 issue and on Decanter.com.
On 24 May, Grant Ashton of London wine club 67 Pall Mall held a blind tasting of all the same wines as the original 1976 tasting but from younger vintages, asking the 55 guests to rank them. The results were: white – Chalone Vineyard 2011; David Bruce 2010; Chateau Montelena 2002; Roulot, Charmes 1er Cru, Meursault 2006; Freemark Abbey 2012; Drouhin, Clos des Mouches 1er Cru, Beaune 2002; Spring Mountain 2012; Leflaive, Les Pucelles 1er Cru, Puligny-Montrachet 2002; Veedercrest, Ruhl Vineyard 2009; Ramonet-Prudhon, Bâtard-Montrachet 2000; red – Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, SLV 2005; Château Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan 2001; Ridge, Monte Bello 2005; Freemark Abbey, Bosché 2001; Château Montrose, St-Estèphe 2001; Château Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac 2001; Clos du Val 2001; Heitz, Martha’s Vineyard 2005; Château Léoville-Las Cases, St-Julien 2001; Mayacamas 2002.
The following day in Paris the focus was on California, matched by Macéo’s elegant dishes. Three Chardonnays – Raymond Vineyards, Generations 2013; Grgich Hills, Paris Tasting Commemorative 2013 and Ridge, Monte Bello 2012 – were followed by four Cabernets – Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Artemis 2013; Joseph Phelps, Insignia 2012; Ridge, Monte Bello 2012; and Clos du Val, Reserve 1999. My favourites were Ridge’s Chardonnay and Clos du Val, both of whose winemakers had flown in from California to attend.
California in the ascendant
The next evening found me back at 67 Pall Mall to present five flights of two wines, mostly from my own cellar, of the same vintage and similar price points, to a group of 16 wine aficionados who were asked to give their preferences after each flight, before the labels were shown. The results:
was preferred over over over then the over won the deciding round over St-Julien 1998. It was fitting that the wine of the great Robert Mondavi clinched the night for California, three rounds to two, even above my favourite of the three Léovilles.
Then on 28 May it was off to Sir Peter Michael’s The Vineyard at Stockcross near Newbury in Berkshire for an elaborate dinner accompanied by six flights of two wines, director of wine James Hocking selecting European wines, not just from France.
‘May involved almost continuous re-creations and celebrations on both sides of the Atlantic’