Rewards of patience: pairs of vintages to compare and contrast

Jacquesson, Cuvée No739, Grand Vin Extra Brut, Champagne, France NV 93 £45 Bottle Apostle, Fortnum & Mason, Hedonism, Highbury Vintner, Philglas & Swiggot, Selfridges Blend based on 2011. Fragrant nose of yellow apples and citrus-imbued shortcrust pastry with a lively spritz of fresh lemon. Compact and impactful yet light-footed, with notions of stone, oatmeal and salt. Very refreshing with richness on a creamy apple finish. Drink 2016-2027 Alc 12%

Jacquesson, Cuvée No734, Dégorgement Tardif, Grand Vin Extra Brut, Champagne, France NV 94 £69 Harvey Nichols, Highbury Vintners, The Good Wine Shop Blend based on 2006. Hints of tarte tatin with caramelised apple and overtones of dark fir honey. The palate has immense stony, chalky depth with restrained honey echoes. Soft but lively mousse gently carries the precise and zesty flavours to a long and moreish finish. Drink 2016-2027 Alc 12%

Pewsey Vale, The Contours Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia 2010 93 £ 18 AC Gallie, Amazon, Cambridge Wine Merchants, Hennings, Highbury Vintners, Love Wine, Philglas & Swiggot, SH Jones, Slurp, The Solent Cellar Lifted nose of candied lime peel, subtle smoke and flinty stone. Bone-dry, flowing palate of honeyed roundness with concentrated notes of candied lime, camomile tea and buttered, toasted brioche. Depth draws you in and echoes long. Drink 2016-2046 Alc 13%

Pewsey Vale, The Contours Riesling, Eden Valley, South Australia 2005 94 £ 27-£ 30 Dulwich Vintners, Highbury Vintners, Noel Young Closed at first, but with a little air the scent of dried hay, flowers, candied lime and dried citrus foliage opens up to become heady and direct. The slender, succinct palate has a linear seam of citrus, buffered with butter and toast, with smoke and cashew nuts around the edges. Drink 2016-2046 Alc 13%

Fattoria Selvapiana, Vigneto Bucerchiale, Chianti Rùfina, Tuscany, Italy 2011 91 £26 Widely available via UK agent Liberty Wines Initial hints of earth, cypress and leather reveal a rich seam of red cherry, both sweet and tart, and lifted notes of fresh bay leaf. The palate is a savoury blend of leather and dried cherry, earth and autumnal oak leaves. Clove spice hovers, as does Morello cherry and dried rose petal. Drink 2016-2020 Alc 15%

Fattoria Selvapiana, Vigneto Bucerchiale, Chianti Rùfina, Tuscany, Italy 2007 94 N/A UK www. selvapiana. it A wonderful nose of juicy, ripe brambles plus black and red cherry with a full aromatic lift of dried bay, mint and camphor. There’s still grip on a tightly woven palate. Very refined and seductive version of rusticity. Aromatic and lip-smackingly fresh. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 15%

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja, Spain 2007 92 £65-£80 Fortnum & Mason, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, The Tasting Room, The Vineking, Jeroboams Sumptuously rich nose of ripe forest fruit coulis drenched in double cream. Super-smooth, velvety, rounded palate highlighting still-fresh red berry fruit and ripe red cherries, edged with fenugreek and dried dill. A lovely vein of acidity keeps everything fresh. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14%

Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva Especial, Rioja, Spain 1985 93 N/A UK www. marquesdemurrieta.com Musk gives way to notes of dried cherry and even sultana. A slight vanilla edge touches on tart barley sugar on the smooth, redcurrant-driven palate. A nuance of mushroom and earth too. Sprightly and fresh, mature but totally alive and very moreish. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 13%

Corison, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA 2013 94 £75 Roberson Wine Still closed, but underneath there’s an air of precise, pure wild blueberry fruit. The soft, plush palate is unforced and gentle, concentrated but not extracted, still tight and all about the fruit and velvet texture. A little oak spice on the finish to lift it all. Drink 2022-2046 Alc 13.5%

Corison, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California, USA 2001 94 £ 100 Roberson Wine This takes a while to open up, but then reveals lifted blueberry and wild forest fruit. This has barely started on its journey: the tannins are still tight, and for now it shows rich, elegant and unforced fruit with glimpses of liquorice. Drink 2016-2046 Alc 13.6%

Yalumba, FDR1A Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2012 91 £ 23-£ 25 AC Gallie, Cambridge Wine, Corks Out, DVine Cellars, Hailsham Cellars, Love Wine, SH Jones, Slurp, Winedirect Heady, dark berry fruit with hints of tar and eucalyptus. The palate assumes the welcome tartness of redcurrant and wild blackberry. Dense and fresh, sumptuous and sprightly – like an untamed if elegant giant waiting to settle down. If you like it rich have this now, otherwise wait. Drink 2016-2036 Alc 14%

Yalumba, FDR1A Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz, Barossa, South Australia 2005 93 £ 35 BI Wine, Corking Wines, Flagship Wines, Hoults, Planet of the Grapes, SH Jones, Slurp Heady fruit with an edge of aromatic herbs. Tar and vanilla mingle with something more ethereal, like pine and camphor. The palate is still tense but shows complete fluidity and unfurls silkily. This has an immense store of lively fruit and power at its core. Drink 2016-2040 Alc 14%