Decanter

My top three

Stephen Brook

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Jean-Claude Boisset, Les

Ursulines 2014 Grégory Patriat is the winemaker for the JC Boisset range – high-quality wines from purchased rather than estate-grown grapes. The minerality impressed me here, as you don’t expect much from a mere Bourgogne. It has complex aromas and an appealing raciness too. 92 Drink 2016-2017

Michel Bouzereau et Fils 2014

Bouzereau is a top producer of Meursault, so it’s no surprise his Bourgogne is a sophistica­ted wine. I like its smoky aromas, weight and body, and its long, complex finish. Not quite the grandeur of Meursualt, but close. 91 Drink 2016-2017

Clotilde Davenne 2015 This comes from Préhy, a village at the southern end of the Chablis appellatio­n. The soil is chalky, as it should be, giving the wine an appealing raciness. It is surprising­ly toasty for an unoaked wine. But for an accident of zoning, this wine might have been an AC Chablis. 91 Drink 2016-2019

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