Seeking 1998 Bordeaux
I wish I’d thought to buy and store wine from vintages corresponding with milestone events sooner. How about a wedding in 1998? Is it too late to track down a quality Bordeaux from that vintage, to be stored until a silver anniversary in 2023? If not, can you suggest a particular wine, and where and how to find one with a higher probability that it has been properly stored until now? Joe Gagnon, by email Jane Anson, Decanter’s Bordeaux correspondent, replies: Try to find an established merchant who may have bought the wine en primeur. Even if they no longer have it in stock, they might be able to source a case back from one of their regular collectors who they trust in terms of storage. Corney & Barrow, Nickolls
& Perks, Four Walls Wine or Berry Bros & Rudd in the UK may be able to help. Or you could also try auctions. Prices can be very interesting at French sales – visit www.auction.fr.
Luckily 1998 is not too far back. This was a classic Right Bank vintage with a dry and hot July and August, although rains at harvest complicated things especially for the Cabernet Sauvignon. Look at Château Canon or Château Angélus – I have enjoyed both of their 1998s recently, and they will easily last to 2023.
I also recently had a 1998 Lafite Rothschild that was astonishing, and many of the Left Bank wines that were pretty tannic in their early years are starting to look good now. I can recommend Châteaux Giscours, Grand Puy Lacoste and Léoville-Las Cases from 1998.
If you have any particular favourites, and as it is for a wedding anniversary, you could try contacting the châteaux directly. I called around a few for you and no one had any cases in stock, although Château Haut-Bailly has a magnum of 1998 (a wine that is still very much in its prime) for about €230.