Bolgheri’s Solosole Vermentino

In 2001 Marilisa and Walter Allegrini, wishing to take on a new challenge beyond the confines of their historical Valpolicella, fell in love with the Etruscan region of Bolgheri to create the Poggio al Tesoro estate on the foothills near the Tyrrhenian coast. The emphasis was to be on white wines from only ancient clones of Malvoisie de Corse, Corsica’s indigenous Vermentino. Vinified in stainless steel, freshness of primary aromas and pristine tanginess show when young, tertiary aromas developing with age, along with nuanced mineral notes. The tasting in mid-June began with the just-bottled 2015, a wine with lovely florality, exuberance of fruit and saline acidity (£17.95, Liberty Wines). The 2014, a cooler vintage, was richer than expected with a tangy, almost Riesling acidity for keeping; 2010, one of the best in the past 10 years, was still youthful with both structure and grip replacing Mediterranean charm; 2008, a wonderful year for Bolgheri whites, was still floral, even a little creamy, perfect now, while the 2007 from three-year-old vines showed retained freshness and lift. While Vermentino is generally not for the cellar, Solosole is.