Pro­duc­ers to know

Decanter - - THE MACONNAIS -

Château des Ron­tets, Fuissé The vine­yards of this his­toric estate are among the high­est and coolest in the ap­pel­la­tion. Hus­band and wife team Fabio Mon­trasi and Claire Gazeau pro­duce three wines: their Clos Varam­bon and Les Bir­bettes bot­tlings both hail from the clos (en­closed vine­yard) sur­round­ing the château, and the Pier­refolle from an un­usual par­cel with gran­ite soils. Do­maine de la Bon­gran, Quin­taine Gau­tier Thévenet took up the reins from his leg­endary fa­ther Jean in 2000, but noth­ing has changed at this do­maine, cel­e­brated since the early 20th cen­tury for its un­com­pro­mis­ing wine­mak­ing. Low-yield­ing Chardon­nay se­lec­tions, late har­vests and pro­tracted fer­men­ta­tion and mat­u­ra­tion in tank pro­duce deep, con­cen­trated, sin­gu­lar wines.

Do­maine Guer­rin & Fils, Ver­gis­son A top-class do­maine founded in 1984, Guer­rin pro­duces a range of lieu-dit bot­tlings from St-Véran, Pouilly-Fuissé and Mâ­con-Ver­gis­son, with vini­fi­ca­tion prac­tices adapted to the vin­tage and ter­roir. The re­sults are ten­sile, site- driven wines of ele­gance and in­ten­sity.

Do­maine Guf­fens- Hey­nen, Ver­gis­son Guf­fens’ wines are the ref­er­ence point for the re­gion, con­sis­tently com­pet­ing with the best that the Côte de Beaune has to of­fer. Hand-har­vest­ing, bar­rel fer­men­ta­tion and age­ing on the lees are

the fun­da­men­tals, but the devil is in the de­tail – of which Jean-Marie and his team are masters.

Do­maine JA Fer­ret, Fuissé The late Madame Fer­ret was a leg­endary fig­ure and her wines were among the bench­marks of the ap­pel­la­tion, but on her pass­ing this do­maine strug­gled to main­tain stan­dards. A re­nais­sance be­gan when it was pur­chased by the ma­jor Bur­gundy house Mai­son Louis Jadot in 2008 and the tal­ented Au­drey Brac­cini in­stalled as wine­maker. The wines are now cool, pure and pre­cise, ex­press­ing with clar­ity their dif­fer­ent ter­roirs.

Olivier Mer­lin, La Roche-Vineuse Olivier Mer­lin es­tab­lished his do­maine in 1987, after sev­eral years in Cal­i­for­nia. He soon won a rep­u­ta­tion as one of the re­gion’s most dili­gent and tal­ented vingerons. Timely har­vest­ing, bar­rel fer­men­ta­tion and a deft hand with new wood make these some of the most el­e­gant, trans­par­ent wines in the re­gion.

Château des Ron­tets, Fuissé

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