Decanter

Producers to know

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Château des Rontets, Fuissé The vineyards of this historic estate are among the highest and coolest in the appellatio­n. Husband and wife team Fabio Montrasi and Claire Gazeau produce three wines: their Clos Varambon and Les Birbettes bottlings both hail from the clos (enclosed vineyard) surroundin­g the château, and the Pierrefoll­e from an unusual parcel with granite soils. Domaine de la Bongran, Quintaine Gautier Thévenet took up the reins from his legendary father Jean in 2000, but nothing has changed at this domaine, celebrated since the early 20th century for its uncompromi­sing winemaking. Low-yielding Chardonnay selections, late harvests and protracted fermentati­on and maturation in tank produce deep, concentrat­ed, singular wines.

Domaine Guerrin & Fils, Vergisson A top-class domaine founded in 1984, Guerrin produces a range of lieu-dit bottlings from St-Véran, Pouilly-Fuissé and Mâcon-Vergisson, with vinificati­on practices adapted to the vintage and terroir. The results are tensile, site- driven wines of elegance and intensity.

Domaine Guffens- Heynen, Vergisson Guffens’ wines are the reference point for the region, consistent­ly competing with the best that the Côte de Beaune has to offer. Hand-harvesting, barrel fermentati­on and ageing on the lees are

the fundamenta­ls, but the devil is in the detail – of which Jean-Marie and his team are masters.

Domaine JA Ferret, Fuissé The late Madame Ferret was a legendary figure and her wines were among the benchmarks of the appellatio­n, but on her passing this domaine struggled to maintain standards. A renaissanc­e began when it was purchased by the major Burgundy house Maison Louis Jadot in 2008 and the talented Audrey Braccini installed as winemaker. The wines are now cool, pure and precise, expressing with clarity their different terroirs.

Olivier Merlin, La Roche-Vineuse Olivier Merlin establishe­d his domaine in 1987, after several years in California. He soon won a reputation as one of the region’s most diligent and talented vingerons. Timely harvesting, barrel fermentati­on and a deft hand with new wood make these some of the most elegant, transparen­t wines in the region.

 ??  ?? Château des Rontets, Fuissé
Château des Rontets, Fuissé

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