Kelley’s dozen: great Mâ­con white buys

Decanter - - THE MACONNAIS -

Do­maine Guf­fen­sHey­nen, Tri de Chav­i­gne, Mâ­con- Pier­rec­los 2014 94 £ 30 Farr Vint­ners, Mil­lésima Notes of melon, lemon oil, pas­try cream and wheat toast lead into a glossy, ex­pan­sive wine with beau­ti­ful acid­ity, a deep core rounded off with ex­cep­tional in­ten­sity and grip on the fin­ish. Drink 2017-2025 Al­co­hol 13% Do­maine de la Bon­gran, Cu­vée EJ Thévenet, Viré- Clessé 2011 93 £ 21.36-£ 28.95 Ge­orges Bar­bier, Lea & Sande­man A su­perb nose of hon­ey­comb, but­tered ap­ples and field mush­room. Tex­tu­ral, in­tense; di­men­sion and power with cool acids. Sev­eral years away from re­veal­ing all its po­ten­tial.

Drink 2017-2030 Alc 14% Do­maine La Soufrandière, Les Quarts, Pouil­lyVinzelles 2015 93 £ 35 Berry Bros & Rudd, WoodWin­ters A beau­ti­ful wine this year. Poached pear, yel­low cit­rus, and pas­try cream; in­tense, com­plex, pow­er­ful palate with lovely depth and min­er­al­ity. A low pH of 3.1, de­spite the warmth and ripeness of the year. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13.5% Do­maine Guer­rin, Les Crays, Pouilly- Fuissé 2014 92 £ 23 Drinkmon­ger, Rober­son Yel­low or­chard fruit, hon­ey­suckle, pear and sub­tle hazel­nut in­tro­duce a beau­ti­ful wine with lovely depth, good con­cen­tra­tion and tex­tu­ral gloss bal­anced by great pu­rity and cut. The new wood is al­ready el­e­gantly in­te­grated. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13%

Ver­get, Vigne de St- Claude, St-Véran 2015 92 £ 14.50 Farr Vint­ners, Harvey Ni­chols Beau­ti­fully vi­brant in this

vin­tage, dis­play­ing a nose of lemon oil, white flow­ers and pas­try cream. On the palate, it is full-bod­ied, very fo­cused and lin­ear with great min­er­al­ity. It’s a 2015 which could pass for a 2014 blind. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Château de Fuissé, Tête de Cru, Pouilly- Fuissé 2014 91 £ 23-£ 30 Ger­rard Seel, Har­rods, Jer­oboams, OW Loeb, Pri­vate Cel­lar This is a very clas­sic Pouil­lyFuissé, with a nose of white flow­ers, con­fit cit­rus and smoke, in­tro­duc­ing a tex­tu­ral, full-bod­ied wine with depth, acid­ity and per­sis­tence and good en­ergy, de­spite its con­sid­er­able vol­ume. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13%

Château des Ron­tets, Pier­refolle Pouilly- Fuissé 2013 91 £ 30 Berry Bros &

Rudd, WoodWin­ters Aro­mas of honey, or­ange blos­som, tan­ger­ine oil and peach are fol­lowed by an open-knit, tex­tu­ral and in­trigu­ingly min­eral wine, pro­duced from an aro­matic clone of Chardon­nay grow­ing on an east-fac­ing out­crop­ping of gran­ite cov­ered with lit­tle top soil: a sin­gu­lar wine from a sin­gu­lar site. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13%

Do­maine Pas­cal Bon­homme, Vieilles Vignes, Viré- Clessé 2014 91 N/A UK www. bon­homme-vire.fr

A youth­fully re­served nose of pear, peach pit, wet stones and hon­ey­suckle in­tro­duces a deep, con­cen­trated wine that dis­plays con­sid­er­able struc­tural depth along with am­pli­tude and ten­sion: this will be even bet­ter after a few years in the cel­lar to unwind and open up. Se­ri­ous stuff. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Olivier Mer­lin, Le Grand Bus­sière, St-Véran 2014 91 £ 25 Berry Bros & Rudd, WoodWin­ters Of­fers youth­fully re­served aro­mas of lemon zest and pas­try cream, off­set by a top-note of spring flow­ers form­ing the pre­lude to an el­e­gantly tex­tu­ral wine that dis­plays zesty acid­ity, good grip and cred­itable depth. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13% Do­maine de la Tour Penet, Mâ­conPéronne 2014 90 N/A UK +33 (0)3 85 36 90 78 At­trac­tive bou­quet of pear, pas­try cream, nut­meg and jas­mine. Sup­ple, el­e­gantly tex­tured, un­der­pinned by juicy acid­ity and fin­ish­ing with good grip and cut. A lovely ren­di­tion. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13% Do­maine JA Fer­ret, Pouilly- Fuissé 2015 90 £ 29.50 Cheers, Great Western, Lu­vians, Par­tridges, Peni­s­tone Court, Phil­glas & Swig­got, Taurus, The Ox­ford Wine Co Fer­ret’s ba­sic Pouilly- Fuissé bot­tling is ex­cel­lent, lead­ing with aro­mas of crisp green ap­ples and white flow­ers, fol­lowed on the palate by bright­i­ness, pu­rity, fresh acid­ity and nicely in­tense fruit. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 13% Les Héri­tiers du Comte La­fon, Les Maranches, Mâ­con- Uchizy 2014 89 £ 23.95 Berry Bros & Rudd A re­served, quite re­duc­tive nose fea­tur­ing sub­tle notes of green ap­ples and white flow­ers is fol­lowed by a taut, medi­um­bod­ied wine that puts the em­pha­sis on min­er­al­ity and acid­ity; a min­i­mal­ist Mâ­con. Drink 2017-2025 Alc 13%

For UK stock­ist de­tails, see p97

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