Barrie’s picks: glorious English sparkling to try
Langham Wine Estate, Classic Cuvée Reserve Brut, Dorset 2011 97 £ 27.99-£ 33 Cambridge Wine Merchants, Duncan Murray, The Dorset Wine Co, Yapp Bros There is only one word for this: delicious. Rich, smoky aromas give way to a multi-layered palate of praline, honey and mushroom, all kept in check by a core of vibrant acidity. It is hedonistic but delightful and, given its maturity, excellent value for money. Drink 2017-2019 Alcohol 12%
Sugrue Pierre, The Trouble with Dreams Cuvée Brut, South Downs 2013 97 £ 33.40-£ 39 EeBria, Exel, Hallgarten Druitt & Novum, Hennings, Strictly Wine, Wood-Winters From its restrained but complex aromas of brioche, truffle and spice to its vibrant, mouthwatering acidity, this is beautifully crafted and hugely exciting fizz. Although drinking well now, it has the structure to develop for several years. Drink 2017-2022 Alc 12%
Nyetimber, Blanc de Blancs, West Sussex 2010 96 £ 38.50-£43.99 Berry Bros & Rudd, Davy’s, Farr, Drinkmonger, Harrods, Jeroboams, Justerini & Brooks, L’Assemblage, Lea & Sandeman, The Finest Bubble, Wood-Winters Developed bread and wood-smoke aromas are matched by a fine mousse and savoury, apple peel flavours. Stylish and classic. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 12%
Chapel Down, Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée, North
Downs, Kent 2013 95 £ 100 Chapel Down Winery This ambitious new prestige cuvée blanc de blancs is still very young, but shows enormous promise. Full of spiced apple fruit, chalky minerality, tangy acidity and a hint of autolysis. Tuck away for a while. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 12%
Wiston Estate, Cuvée Brut, South Downs 2013 95 £ 32.95 Booths, Corney & Barrow, Harvey Nichols, Hennings Wines, Simply Wines Direct, The Finest Bubble Once again, the latest release of Wiston’s vintage cuvée from winemaker Dermot Sugrue is superb. Savoury, yeasty aromas are matched by fresh, focused acidity in the mouth, along with hints of roasted nut and ripe apple. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12%
Cottonworth, Classic Cuvée Brut, Hampshire NV 93 £ 24.99-£ 28 All About Wine, Fareham Wine Cellar, Toscanaccio Savoury, autolytic notes on the nose are the result of 27 months’ lees ageing and 30% reserve wine. The overall impression is one of elegance, with biscuit and light truffle flavours underpinning a very fine and refreshing frame. Drink 2017-2020 Alc 12%
Court Garden, Ditchling Reserve Brut, East Sussex 2010 93 £ 29.70-£ 31.99 Butlers Wine Cellar, Dulwich Vintners, Handford, Quaff A blanc de noirs that is typically broad and bready with baked red apple fruit and hints of roasted nut from oak.
Though it’s from the 2010 vintage, it is still beautifully lively with juicy acidity and a very appealing drinkability. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 12%
Fox & Fox, Inspiration Brut, East Sussex 2013 92 £ 33-£ 39 Justerini & Brooks This characterful Pinot Gris-based blanc de blancs is rich in colour, aroma and flavour. Intensely creamy but refreshingly dry, with bread and spiced red apple aromas, it is full of energy and life. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 11.5%
Gusbourne, Blanc de Blancs, Kent 2013 92 £ 37.50-£42.95 Berry Bros & Rudd, Goedhuis & Co, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, Jeroboams, Justerini & Brooks, Lea & Sandeman, Oddbins, Selfridges, Wood-Winters As with all of the Gusbourne wines, there is a precision and subtlety here, along with the saline minerality and steely acidity of a classic blanc de blancs. Elegant, bready and tight-knit, it is young and needs time to develop. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 12%
Hambledon Vineyard, Première Cuvée Brut, Hampshire NV 91 £42.50-£49.90 Berry Bros & Rudd, Harvey Nichols, Hedonism, The Finest Bubble, Virgin Wine, Waitrose Cellar A blend of the Champagne trio from 2011 with 15% reserve wine from 2010, this is the first release of Hambledon’s top wine. There is evident development of colour and aroma, with buttered toast and rich, bready notes to the fore. A bold, stylish fizz for classicists. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 12%
Greyfriars, Rosé Reserve Brut, Surrey 2013 94 £ 23.50-£ 25.99 Lea & Sandeman, Waitrose Made from 100% Pinot Noir with a third of the blend fermented in old oak, this antique gold-coloured rosé is full of spiced plum fruit and creamy, roasted nut flavours. A rich-textured and toasty style that’s a great match for food. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 11.5%
Digby Fine English, Leander Pink Brut, NV 93 £ 29.99 Armit, Harvey Nichols, Marks & Spencer, Waitrose From its pale salmon colour to its restrained but spicy, red fruit palate, this is a subtle and stylish rosé. Elegant and autolytic, balanced, long and harmonious, it’s one to sip and savour. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 12%
Ambriel, Rosé Extra Dry, West Susssex NV 91 £ 22.50 Hawkins Bros, Private Cellar, Wine Pantry, Wine Therapy Charles and Wendy Outhwaite’s West Sussex estate is a relative newcomer to the English wine scene and I particularly like their juicy, easy-going rosé. Full of summer fruit flavours and red apple tang, it’s great value and ideal for picnics and parties. Drink 2017-2019 Alc 10%
For full details of UK stockists, see p97