Domaine Marquis d’Angerville 2015

Guillaume d’Angerville presented his superb 2015s in April, noting that the historic family estate of 15 hectares includes 11ha in Volnay premier cru, biodynamically farmed for a decade. The vintage began with an excellent flowering, dry weather from early June to late July, much-needed rain in early August, the harvest starting early on 4 September to avoid over-ripeness. His Volnay 1er Cru was a classy introduction (91/£41.67), the Clos des Angles showing elegant purity (92/£50), the Frémiet was velvety smooth (93/£52.50) and quality increased with three superb premiers crus at £65.83: Les Taillepieds (95) grippy, firm, with depth; Les Champans (95) fuller, more rounded, with spice and warmth; and Les Caillerets (96) fragrant and elegant, hard to imagine a more perfect expression of Volnay, until the Monopole Clos des Ducs (97/£120.83), whose 2.15ha was first recorded in 1507 and remains unchanged; here, superb fragrance, clarity and depth, unquestionably of grand cru status. If confirmation were needed, it came over lunch with the 2011, which combined delicacy and force (96), and the more robust 2005, a classic (97). Drinking window for the top crus 2022-35, longer for Clos des Ducs. Prices are per bottle in bond, from Corney & Barrow and Justerini & Brooks.