What I’ve been drinking this month

In Piedmont recently, I dined by the pool at Barolo producer Elvio Cogno’s home and fell in love with his complex Anas- Cëtta, Nascetta, Langhe, Piedmont 2015 made from the rare local white grape Nascetta, which he helped rescue from oblivion. A big white with intense aromas of dried peaches and herbs, it has a smoky, salty taste and a succulent texture. It reminded me how many abandoned Italian grapes deserve to be revived.