The results
Both Altamira and Gualtallary came up trumps in this tasting, Altamira showing its pedigree and Gualtallary an exciting sense of experimentation. Amy Wislocki reports
The rATionAle for grouping these two micro-regions of the Uco Valley together for this panel tasting was that both are producing some of Argentina’s most exciting Malbecs and other reds. That fact is confirmed by a fantastic set of results – no fewer than 12 wines rated outstanding, and a further 37 highly recommended.
Both regions won their fair share of the accolades (with Gualtallary having the edge at highly recommended level), but in the post-tasting discussion our experts emphasised the differences between them.
Altamira is a long-established wine region with older vines, and a distinguished pedigree, while Gualtallary is an emerging region without a fully established identity. ‘More experimentation, less history,’ quipped Paz levinson. ‘We found an “Altamira style” far more than we did a “Gualtallary style” – Altamira was definitely more consistent stylistically.’
That said, the tasters were able to make some general observations about regional characters. levinson described the wines of Gualtallary as having ‘wildness’ and being more herbal. ‘it’s not the fruit bomb, but more about bones, you know – about structure and texture.’
Phil Crozier agreed with the ‘wildness’ descriptor for the Gualtallary reds: ‘i get black fruit from here, and flowers mixed in with that – lavender, roses, violets. There’s a real delicacy, a wildness. Altamira is more red fruit, austerity, medicinal chalk, eucalyptus, menthol. The Altamira wines have a seriousness about them – they appeal to, for example, Burgundy lovers.’
for Patricio Tapia, the difference is about structure. ‘The Altamira wines are better for cellaring, probably because of the structure of the tannins,’ he observed. he found the Altamira style more austere, and the Gualtallary style generally ‘lighter, fresher and vibrant’, though he complained about some ‘soupy, flat wines’.
it figures, he said: ‘There’s massive variation in styles because they’re still discovering themselves.’
one major drawback for wine lovers, Crozier pointed out, is that producers are not currently allowed to use the word Gualtallary on the front label, as the rights to use that name are privately owned. hopefully that situation will change, but in the meantime some producers use ‘Gualta’ on the label, as an alternative. ‘it’s the biggest stumbling block for Gualtallary at the moment,’ added a frustrated Crozier.
Talk then turned to vintages. ‘The 2013s are drinking very nicely – it was a beautiful vintage,’ enthused Crozier. ‘And some of the 2014s were very good too; they’re beginning to come into their own. i was surprised at how good the 2015s are, but it was a disaster for Cabernet Sauvignon – don’t even go there,’ he warned.
in general, buyers who want a change from Malbec are better going to Altamira for Cabernet Sauvignon and Gualtallary for Cabernet franc, felt Tapia. ‘Malbec works everywhere!’ he added.
All three tasters were keen to convey their genuine enthusiasm for these wines. ‘it was an amazing tasting – there were some absolutely staggeringly beautiful wines,’ said Crozier. And most are approachable now.
‘That’s the strength of Argentinian reds – especially now that the winemakers are managing the oak and tannins more skilfully,’ said levinson. ‘You can drink them now with pleasure, or happily cellar them for a decade or more if you want to.’ Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest- release reds from Altamira and Gualtallary in Argentina’s Uco Valley, in which 85% of the grapes must be sourced from a single sub- region
‘You get wildness, f lorality and black fruits in Gualtallary; austere red fruit in Altamira’ Phil Crozier