Rest— SCA
T ucked inside the Central Architects Society, Restó SCA has built a solid reputation for creating contemporary Argentinian cuisine; it’s one of Buenos Aires’ best-kept dining secrets. Celebrating its 20th anniversary in October, there’s been a change of regime after sous chef María Magdalena Piaggio stepped up to helm the kitchen in May – and she’s keen to shine.
Chandon’s Blanc de Noir Brut Nature kicks off dinner. It’s followed by a huge basket of sourdough, ciabatta, wholegrain and black olive breads. Slapping on noisette butter topped with peanut praline ensures a direct line to your hips.
Restó wears its heart on its sleeve when it comes to Argentina, showing love for ingredients sourced from all corners of the country. Going large with the eight-course menú de cocinero (AR$750, £32; wine pairings around AR$400, £17) offers up opportunities for both Piaggio and sommelier Matías Chiesa to play around.
While the wine list is relatively brief at 55 labels, Restó’s cellar is well stocked with rotating by-the-glass gems dipping into Patagonia in the far south (Noemía, see p56), the Atlantic coast (Trapiche’s Costa & Pampa) and Calchaquí Valley in the northwest (El Porvenir de Cafayate, El Esteco) as well as Mendoza.
Chiesa pairs Zorzal’s Terroir Unico Sauvignon Blanc 2015 with Patagonian lamb tongue marinated in paprika sourced from Cachi in the northwest, a dish fusing two diverse regions. Bean hummus, fennel seeds, capers and hard-boiled quail egg ensure the squeamish will never realise offal is on their plate.
This being a carnivorous capital, Piaggio deals in all manner of proteins, braising underrated lamb neck then teaming it with roast sweet potato mash and Tempus Alba’s Tempranillo 2012. Medium-rare, grass-fed bife de chorizo (sirloin strip) perfectly paired with Zuccardi’s Q Malbec 2014 and a Laguiole knife are a polite reminder that we’re in Argentina and this is how to eat steak.
Whichever menu you opt for, make sure it includes the mushroom soup. Crimini, oyster, shiitake, and pine fungi sourced from the Atlantic seaboard come together with a soft-poached egg, accompanied by Casarena’s 505 Chardonnay 2015 to balance out the dreamy earthiness. Casual elegance in a bowl.
While every dish is perfectly executed, Piaggio – accustomed to catering for a spice-averse Argentinian audience – could take more risks with bolder flavours.