Vinhão

This remarkable darkskinned variety from the Minho region of northwest Portugal produces such deeply coloured wines it is often mistakenly described as a teinturier variety (one of the few that have coloured flesh). There’s so much colour in the skins that as soon as they are broken in any way it seeps into the flesh. Although Vinhão is best known in its home region as red Vinho Verde, it is also planted under the name Sousão in the Douro Valley, often in old-vine field blends made into Port. Quinta do Vallado and Quinta do Vale da Raposa are unusual in making an unfortified 100% Sousão. The variety has a reputation for producing rustic wines high in tannin and acidity and with moderate alcohol but today there are some stunning, lightly polished examples which nevertheless retain the variety’s distinctive wild berry character (elderberries) that goes particularly well with pork dishes. It is also planted in Spain’s Galicia, where it is known as Sousón and generally used in blends. Further afield, it is found to a limited extent in California, South Africa and Australia, generally to contribute freshness to Port-style wines. From Minho try Aphros, Quinta da Palmirinha, Quinta de Carapeços and Quinta de Gomariz. In Spain’s Valdeorras, try Quinta da Muradella. Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson MW, Julia Harding MW and José Vouillamoz; www.winegrapes.org