Grape varieties

Zierfandler

Three years ago in this column, I wrote about the Austrian white variety Rotgipfler. Zierfandler is its natural partner and the two varieties are often blended, especially in Gumpoldskirchen in the Thermenregion. (There are just over 100 hectares in Austria, including a few in Wagram.) However, Zierfandler also makes very good varietal wines, sweet as well as dry, that are powerful and full of flavour – orange, peach, lightly spiced and honeyed – but with the acidity to bring harmony to those flavours. It has been suggested that it is related to Silvaner, but DNA analysis indicates rather that it could be the result of a natural cross between Roter Veltliner and a relative of Savagnin. The berries have a slightly pink coloration but the wines tend to be golden in both colour and flavour. Recommended Austrian producers include Leo Aumann, Biegler, Johannes Gebeshuber, Hannes Hofer, Johanneshof Reinisch, Stadlmann and Harald Zierer. It is also found to a very limited extent in Hungary under the name Cirfandli, predominantly in the Pécs wine region in the south of the country. Recommended producers of this full-bodied wine include Andreas Ebner, Lisicza, Matias and Radó. Wine Grapes by Jancis Robinson MW, Julia Harding MW and José Vouillamoz; www.winegrapes.org