Spanish Atlantic reds

Few other regions can field such a fascinating range of red wine styles, made from a broad palette of native grape varieties, reports Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW

MOST TOURISTS KNOW the dry Spain, which extends along the Mediterranean coast and the high Castilian plateau. The high mountains that run east to west across the north of the country – the Pyrenees and Cantabrian ranges – prevent the heavy Atlantic rains reaching the dry Spain, but also keep the regions to the north of them in a particularly humid and mild climate.

Asturias, Cantabria, Galicia and the northern part of the Basque country are the Green Spain. Until recently, they were irrelevant as far as the production of quality red wine is concerned. But the aggregated effect of scientific developments in viticulture and oenology, climate change, a resurgence of the perceived value of indigenous varieties and a market eager to reward niche identities resulted in a new area for fine red wines.

Spain’s Atlantic red wines are made from native varieties. They are moderate in alcohol, quite fresh and very diverse, which all adds up to a wine lover’s delight.

Red Txakolí is mostly made from Hondarribi Beltza, a close ancestor of Cabernet Franc (a variety with Basque origins, in fact). Until recently, it was green and acidic. Now some producers have found the key to unlocking its finesse, aromatic precision and distinctive profiles.

Strength of character

Though it’s minute, the vineyard area in Asturias is astonishingly beautiful, with a number of native varieties delivering lots of personality: Carrasquín, featured here, is one of those jewels. Most of the Spanish Atlantic wines are produced in Galicia, and I would classify Galician reds in two major profile categories: those built upon concentration and roundness, made from Mencía of Bierzo fame; and those of delicate individuality, made from a high number of native varieties: Brancellao, Caíño, Espadeiro, Merenzao, Sousón and many more.

The best Mencía wines are found in Galicia’s interior: Monterrei, Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras. The wines tend to be higher in acidity than Bierzo, brightly coloured and very fruity. A small but increasingly influential group of producers in Ribeira Sacra and Monterrei produce reds with other Galician varieties of great class.

Ribeiro is a patchwork of soils and varieties, resulting in an amazing diversity – the top wines can only be described as a terroir expression. Rías Baixas is the odd one out for reds, with little tradition there for red grapes, but Raúl Pérez demonstrated some years ago that Galician grapes take the beauty of the Rías (estuaries) and the salinity of the sea and convey them into delicious red wines. Now an increasing number of newcomers are giving wine lovers much to enjoy. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW is a Decanter World Wine Awards Regional co-Chair for Spain and Sherry