O’Leary Walker, Polish Hill River, Clare Valley, South Australia 2013

96 RJ 96 SK 96 AR 96 £12.99 Waitrose

O’Leary Walker was created in in 2000 by winemakers David O’Leary and Nick Walker. After long stints with some well-known companies, they decided to create their own small-batch wines from varieties that excel in different viticultural climates, including Chardonnay from the Adelaide Hills and Shiraz from McLaren Vale. This Riesling is sourced from Martin and Joan Smith’s biodynamically farmed vineyard in Polish Hill River, where soils are grey loam over sandstone and slate.

RJ Full-flavoured honey, toast and lime curd are complemented by a vibrant spritz that leaves a clean, fresh finish. A zippy and exciting wine.

SK Complex kerosene and lemon nose with lime and grapefruit on the palate. Savoury notes come through too, backed fresh acidity. Lacks just a little intensity on the mid-palate, but this is great value.

AR Fine, evolved nose of citrus, petrol and toast and also suggesting sweetness, which translates onto the palate as ripe roasted apricots. It’s all underpinned by firm acidity and a fine, dry finish – fabulous!

Drink 2018-2024 Alc 12%