Joseph Phelps Vineyards
Since construction magnate Joseph Phelps bought this former cattle ranch, planted vines, and released his first wine from the 1973 vintage, the property has been constantly evolving. The initial winemaker, Walter Schug, indulged in splendid late-harvest wines from Riesling and Scheurebe. After his departure in 1983, Phelps focused more on varieties such as Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, especially from remarkable vineyards such as Eisele and Backus. There was a later experiment with Rhône varieties, which has been discontinued. However, the Phelps venture along the Sonoma coast, 40ha of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir under the Freestone label, continues. Insignia, a Bordeaux-style blend, pioneered this style in 1974. The property remains family-owned.
Although a slight detour, the site alone makes a visit a thrilling experience. The gorgeous redwood winery at Phelps houses a spacious visitor centre, and a fine terrace that overlooks hills and vineyards. Joseph Phelps also has an in-house chef, who can present culinary experiences ranging from cheese pairings to a three-hour lunch ($275).
Overall, this is one of the more luxurious tasting experiences that Napa has to offer, though visits are by appointment only (book via the website). Tastings cost $75 for one hour; other options include Exceptional Wine Experiences ($100 for 90 minutes) and more specialised tastings, such as blending the flagship wine Insignia. There are also 90-minute private tutored tastings ($125) and six-vintage verticals of Insignia ($200). 200 Taplin Road, St Helena, CA 94574 10am-3pm daily www.josephphelps.com