Wine legends
Sonoma, California, US
Williams Selyem, Summa Vineyard Pinot Noir 1998
a legend because…
Williams Selyem was not the first serious producer of Californian Pinot Noir, but by the late 1980s it was probably the most highly acclaimed. Although based in Russian River Valley, it bought fruit from several different vineyards. During the 1980s growers began seeking out cool sites near the Sonoma Coast and Summa Vineyard was one of these. The debut Summa bottling from Williams Selyem was 1988 and before long it became both the most expensive Pinot Noir from California and one of the most scarce. By the 1991 vintage, the release price was $100; nonetheless it sold out within three days. Demand for Williams Selyem wines exceeded supply, with a two-year wait to join the mailing list.
Looking back
Williams Selyem was an unusual partnership. Burt Williams was a newspaper typesetter by trade, Ed Selyem a wine retailer. Beginning as hobby winemakers in 1979, their first proper vintage was 1981. In 1983 they moved into an old garage on River Road, building a new winery nearby in 1989. This was a boom time for Russian River Valley Pinot, however in 1998 the duo sold the brand. The purchaser was New York politician John Dyson, who had the good sense to retain Williams as his winemaker for a few years. Dyson expanded the winery but maintained the founding principles under a new winemaker, Bob Cabral, succeeded in 2014 by Jeff Mangahas.
The vintage
A difficult flowering reduced Pinot yields by up to 20%. Summer saw wild swings of temperature, but conditions during harvest were good. Berries were small and the Pinots showed fine concentration. Overall the vintage was considered above average, though very dry conditions halved normal yields in many sites.
The terroir
Summa’s elevation and proximity to the ocean means that although the days are cool, the nights are relatively warm, allowing the grapes to ripen. However, the location just 10km from the Pacific meant that mildew and rot were constant threats. The Pinot planted here in the early 1980s was an unidentified clone but had desirably small clusters. (Williams always suspected it was the Swan clone.) These original blocks were dry-farmed.
The wine
Winemaking was always artisanal, following Burgundian principles. The bunches were hand-sorted, then given a five-day cold soak before fermentation with the winery’s own yeast selection. There was no pumping. Up to 30% whole clusters were usually retained, with punchdowns by foot or by hand. After pressing, wines were aged in heavily toasted Burgundian barrels, with the proportion of new oak ranging from 35% to 100%.
The reaction
Given the tiny production of this wine, reviews are scarce. James Laube of Wine Spectator tasted the wine in 1995, writing: ‘Lean, with a smoky orange rind and tea leaf edge to the barely ripe fruit flavours.’ In 2016 Jordan Mackay noted: ‘Still vital and pulsing after more than 25 years. On the palate, the acidity has just enough zip left to hold it all together, while tannins have faded... surrounding a vibrant, luminous sense of strawberry.’ In 2017 William Kelley said, ‘Cruising along beautifully [with] an exotic blend of blood orange, Asian spice and dried rose petals – the signature from this site. On the palate the wine is glossy, with fully resolved tannins, but just impeccable balance and no signs of decline. Superb!’