Larry Cherubino, Laissez Faire, Porongurup, Great Southern, Western Australia 2015 Wines, Planet of the Grapes, Vin Cognito

95 RJ 96 SK 95 AR 94 £15.65-£18.49 Exel Wines, Great Wine Direct, Hailsham Cellars, Hallgarten

Larry Cherubino and wife Edwina bought their first parcel of vines in Frankland River in 2004 and in 2005 released their first wine. Today they make 48 wines and this Riesling is from the Laissez-Faire range, named for the hands-off approach used in making these ‘post-natural’ wines from estate vineyards.

RJ Perfect Riesling character on the nose and palate. It is evolving beautifully but will keep longer. A great reflection of Porongurup.

SK Showing some toasty development and a waxy lemon and orange character on the palate and a long finish. It has developed perhaps a little early, but still has time to go.

AR Deliciously toasty and full of lime marmalade notes. It finishes with refreshing acidity in a style that suggests greater evolution to come, yet is nonetheless distinctive right now, with lots of character.

Drink 2018-2023 Alc 12%