John Stimpfig
‘The 2017s aren’t as good as 2015 or 2016, but not far off’
En routE to Bordeaux last month to taste the region’s 2017 vintage, the omens were hardly auspicious. usually, the Easy Jet flight is full of the uK wine trade. But my flight was noticeably lacking in uK merchants – save one who spent most of the trip bemoaning the poor margins that en primeur now provides.
Arriving in Pessac, the skies were leaden. Moreover, the forecast for the week was not much better. Low pressure and rain are neither conducive to tasting, nor mood. And to cap it all, the SnCF train service and Air France were both on strike. Would buyers and press show up for what appeared to be a challenging, frost-reduced vintage on the back of two blockbusters in 2016 and 2015 (see p62).
Happily, the answer was yes. Most classed-growth châteaux received more international visitors this year than in 2017. this wasn’t anecdotal: the union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux recorded 5% growth. Could this renewed interest herald and reflect a global revival for Bordeaux?
the other pleasant surprise was the quality of the wines. the frost may have impacted quantity (by 40% in total), but it has not affected quality. Indeed, as Véronique Sanders of Haut-Bailly pertinently pointed out, the 1961 vintage was also hit by spring frost.
So what of the wines? the dry whites are superb, though that doesn’t extend to the sweet wines of Sauternes and Barsac, many of which lack acidity. there are many very good reds with great purity, definition, charm and balance, as well good concentration and freshness. If you love classically styled claret with a contemporary twist, you will not be disappointed. It is not as good as 2015 or 2016, but not that far off in some instances. the wines are also more approachable than their two elder siblings.
However, there are important caveats. the vintage is a bit of a curate’s egg and is far from homogenous. terroir and winemaking are arguably more critical than ever this year. So if you want to avoid some potentially expensive mistakes when the sales campaign begins in a few weeks time, pay close attention to Jane Anson’s comprehensive notes on nearly 600 2017s which have just appeared on Decanter Premium. or wait for a more succinct vintage report of 100 top-scoring and best-value wines in our next issue, which is published with our annual Bordeaux guide.