Mâconnais appellations 2016
The Chardonnays from the five key appellations in this underrated Burgundy region offer some of FranceÕs most exciting and great-value wines, says Andy Howard MW
139 wines tasted This southern region of Burgundy is a great source for value white wine, with Pouilly-Fuissé still the leading area
The MAcoNNAis wiNe region, centred around the provincial town of Mâcon, is arguably one of the most exciting and dynamic areas of Burgundy. The wines have a distinctly southern accent – an interesting contrast to the more classically structured (and much more expensive) wines of the côte d’or. chardonnay is dominant (80% of all wines), with a warmer, more generous character than the wines of chablis.
Bordered to the east and west by the valleys of the rivers saône and Grosne, the Mâconnais wine-growing area sits on complex subsoils formed about 200 million years ago. To the north, closer to the town of Tournus, the landscape is formed of wooded hills and small valleys with many different aspects creating distinct terroir characters. Further south, large stone outcrops start to dominate, the most famous being the Rock of solutré which dominates the vineyards of Pouilly-Fuissé.
Based on 2016 figures, the total area under vine exceeds 5,600 hectares of white wine, with 70% of production under the Mâcon, Mâcon-Villages and Mâcon named village appellations. The latter is an excellent source for well-made, highly affordable white Burgundy; however, it is the neighbouring Ac’s of Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché, st-Veran and Viréclessé which provide some of France’s most exciting (and well-priced) whites – worthy alternatives to the côte d’or’s other more famous chardonnays.
the five key appellations
Pouilly-Fuissé has led the way for years, but a fresher style is emerging. in the past, many wines were weighed down by excessive new oak and were popular in the Us market at that time. Now the watchword is restraint, and wines increasingly use oak to emphasise – rather than dominate – the complex terroir. These modern styles are more aligned with current market tastes and offer great value when compared to other white Burgundies.
Neighbouring Pouilly-Vinzelles and Pouilly-Loché also merit attention, the former exhibiting real focus and minerality. st-Véran is also significant in size and, despite lying next to some of Pouilly-Fuissé’s top sites, has a reputation for wines that are just a small step up from the named Mâcon villages. This does st-Véran a disservice as it also is a source of increasingly exciting options. All of these Acs are in the process of applying for a premier cru designation which, if approved, would cover more than 400ha of vineyards.
Viré-clessé lives up to its quality elevation in 1999 with a style that offers richness, complexity and finesse. with some top producers here, it is well worth exploring.