Domaine Ferret, Clos des Prouges, Pouilly-Fuissé Gilles Morat, Sur la Roche, Pouilly-Fuissé

Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Stephen Brook 95 Emma Dawson MW 95 Matt Wilkin MS 95 £43 Hatch Mansfield, Luvians Established in 1840, Domaine Ferret was a family-owned estate until 2008, when Burgundy titan Louis Jadot bought the property. Ferret has long been regarded as a key player in Pouilly-Fuissé, which arguably played a significant role in Jadot’s decision. This wine comes from a 2ha vineyard planted on a gentle, east-facing slope in the heart of Fuissé. Fermentation and ageing takes place in barrel, one-third new. It then spends five months in stainless steel before bottling.

Stephen Brook A powerful nose – quite oaky – showing tropical and stone fruits. The rich, velvety palate is very concentrated, with fine tension and punch. It’s still youthful and assertive, impressively dense and structured without seeming overworked. Long, mineral finish.

Emma Dawson MW Layered aromas of lemon, apple, wax and hay. On the palate it’s tense and bright with great mineral focus. Flavours of lemon balm and honey combine with gentle, herbal bay notes. Vervy acidity is backed by a creaminess to balance and give depth to the finish.

Matt Wilkin MS Pronounced, forward, ripe blood orange, plus vanilla oak and savoury, grainy oatmeal tones. The palate also has a savoury side, yet is structured and energetic, with ripe fruit. It shows great focus, tension and restraint, with harmonious balance and persistence.

Drink 2019-2023 Alcohol 13.5% 95 SB 95 ED 95 MW 96 £29.50 Stannary St Wine Co Gilles Morat took over a share in the family domaine in 1997. His wife Joëlle joined the business in 2004 after land holdings and productivity expanded. They have vines in St-Véran but are very much Pouilly-Fuissé devotees, with 17 parcels planted in Vergisson. ‘We choose to work a smaller vineyard area to keep with our artisanal, organic approach,’ says Gilles. The handpicked fruit is grown at 350m-400m altitude, and is fermented in barrel before spending a further 11 months on its lees.