My perfect day in cephalonia
Morning
Drive from Argostoli to the picturesque village of Fiscardo at the northern tip of the island, which takes about an hour. After a stroll around the village, head to the pebbled Foki Beach (five minutes from Fiscardo), with cypresses, pine and olive trees that lead down to the sea. Enjoy a traditional meze-style lunch at beachfronted Taverna Foki (+30 697 819 7524).
Afternoon
On your way back to Argostoli visit Gentilini Winery & Vineyards (see p134) or Melissinos-Petrakopoulos Winery (see p134) for a tasting and a walk in the Robola and Mavrodaphne vineyards. If you’re feeling energetic, hike to vineyards in Fagias, 850m above sea level, where you’ll see some of the oldest vines on the island and experience a breathtaking view. Copy the Greeks and take a little siesta for an hour or so, to give you more energy to enjoy your evening outing.
evening
Walk across the quay in Argostoli and head to Oinops* wine bar for an aperitif. Choose from an extensive selection of Greek wines made from indigenous varieties. Walk a little further to the Lithostroto, the main commercial street, to buy mandoles, the local candied almonds. Then enjoy dinner at Kyani Akti* where you eat on a deck over the sea; the pasta al vongole here is a must. Book a table to be on the safe side and ask for the sea urchin vodka shots. Accommodation awaits at Kefalonia Grand*, a beautiful boutique hotel that’s walking distance from Kyani Akti.
For details of entries marked with an asterisk (*) see p135
called vino di sasso (wine of the stone) by the Italians. In Paliki, more clay gives fatter whites and structured reds.
The star variety is Robola (not to be confused with Ribolla Gialla, grown in Friuli); this is the island’s most widely planted grape, covering about 180ha. It produces slightly floral and fruity white wines with plenty of nerve and minerality. Depending on the soils and the philosophy of the producer, the style may be steely and pungent with abundant citrus fruit – like Assyrtiko, but with less intensity and complexity – or it may be fat and fresh, with flavours of peach and fresh apricot.
Other exciting white varieties planted here include Zakynthino, Vostilidi and Tsaousi, but it’s the red Mavrodaphne that stands out. One of Greece’s most prominent native red grapes, it’s mainly associated with sweet wines, yet since the late 1990s producers have been discovering its potential as a dry red. Handled correctly, it can produce scented wines with herbal aromas and an elegant, velvety texture.
two wine routes
Staying near Argostoli is a strategic choice as it offers flexibility and easier access to most locations, along with access to two wine routes.
The first, which is also the longest, starts in Argostoli and climbs up to the Monastery of Agios Gerasimos on the plateau of Omala, at the heart of the Robola vineyards. Here you’ll find the Cephalonia Robola Wine Cooperative, the largest producer on the island with a total production of half a million bottles, which buys grapes from 300 growers (www.robola.gr). Its San Gerassimo Robola, sourced from high-altitude vineyards at 800m above sea level, sings of tension, purity and precision.
From there, you can take the road to the Mt Aenos National Park with its unique black fir trees and pay a visit to the Melissinos- Petrakopoulos Winery in Thiramonas (www. petrakopouloswines.gr). This artisanal winery set up by entrepreneur Nikos Petrakopoulos aims to produce terroir-driven wines, with a production of not more than 25,000 bottles. A fascinating range of three Robolas and two Mavrodaphnes showcases the complete array of flavours and textures these varieties can create. The complex pre-phylloxera Mavrodaphne is particularly worth tasting.
Return to Argostoli via Minies and the Gentilini Winery & Vineyards (www.gentilini.gr). Founded in 1984, Gentilini is now run by second-generation Marianna Kosmetatos and her husband Petros Markantonatos, both spirited contributors to the development of the region. The winery organises detailed wine tours and produces an engaging range of wines including the mineral Wild Paths Robola and a dense, velvety Mavrodaphne.
‘Cephalonia has a strong personality and a unique cultural identity with marked Italian influence’
The second, and shorter, wine route tours Paliki, near Lixouri. Here esoteric producer Evriviadis Sclavos of Sclavos Wines has embraced biodynamics and natural winemaking, crafting characterful wines, which need time in the glass to blossom (www. facebook.com/sclavoswines). His Synodos blend of Mavrodaphne and Vostilidi is scented and poised, with firm structure; while the hard-topronounce Metageitnion is a singular synthesis of 100-year-old Vostilidi vines. Also try his simply brilliant Vino di Sasso Robola.
Two other producers worth visiting in Paliki are Foivos (www.domainefoivos.com) and Haritatos Vineyard (www.facebook.com/ KthmaHaritatouHaritatosVineyard). Both wineries produce solid examples of Robola, Mavrodaphne and Muscat.
Whichever route you choose, you’ll discover that Cephalonia is a stunning destination, offering beautiful beaches, fresh seafood and some of the best wines in Greece. The popular time to visit is summer but, as with most of Greece, it’s best to avoid mid-August when the island can be crowded. Instead choose June, early July or, even better, September.
Yiannis Karakasis MW is a specialist in Greek wines. He publishes www.karakasis.mw