Barolo 2014 & Barbaresco 2015
Stephen Brook reports from Piedmont’s Nebbiolo Prima tastings, picking the best of the new releases as well as riservas from Barolo 2012 and Barbaresco 2014, with four top Roero reds too
Stephen Brook shares his highlights from Piedmont’s Nebbiolo Prima tastings
ThE gREAT NEbbiolo wiNEs of Piedmont have an avid following, so the release of new vintages always generates some excitement – and occasionally disappointment. The starting
gun is triggered each May at an event now known as Nebbiolo Prima – not an official launch, but the first opportunity to taste the new releases. its sole drawback is the sheer
number of wines to be tasted (all blind), 70-90 each day, a total of more than 300 bottles. With few exceptions, the wines will have been bottled only a couple of months previously.
Since there’s no official launch, importers, merchants and the estates are free to sell the wines whenever they choose – thus, of the 50 or so listed here (a selection of the 180 featured on Decanter Premium), most will have been tasted at Nebbiolo Prima, but others sampled at the producer’s estate or importers’ tastings earlier this year.
Barolo 2014
Although spring was early, there was little frost. Temperatures were normal in early summer, but there were some spells of localised rain. in late July, when rainfall was
particularly fierce, some vineyards were drenched, while a few kilometres away the vines got a mere sprinkling. The combination
of warmth and humidity put great demands on growers, who needed to be constantly ➢
‘Early reports led many to write off the 2014 Barolo vintage, but it’s clear that many very good wines were made
Giovanni Rosso, Serra, Serralunga d’Alba
93 All Rosso’s top Barolo crus are in Serralunga and they are aged traditionally. The nose is lean, perky and piquant, with aromas of cranberry. Medium-bodied but vivacious on the palate, with fine clarity of fruit riding over formidable tannins. It’s almost out of balance, yet its mid-palate zest and stylish, long finish make it work. Drink 2019-2034 Alc 14%
Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Cannubi
93 Spent a few months in amphorae after ageing in traditional casks. It’s still reticent and ethereal, but aromas of raspberry, sour cherry, mint and roses are followed by admirable freshness on a concentrated palate, a caressing texture and firm tannins. Drink 2019-2032 Alc 14%
Raineri, Monserra
93 A blend of fruit from Santo Stefano di Perno in Monforte and San Bernardo in Serralunga, a fine success for the vintage, with a lush, smoky, meaty red fruit nose. Rich and weighty, with generous fruit and a ripe, tannic backbone in support. Assertive and spicy, with complexity and drive. Drink 2020-2034 Alc 14.5%
Sandrone, Aleste
93 £82.39-£ 125 Asset Wines, Fine & Rare, Swig, WoodWinters Formerly labelled as Cannubi Boschis, but renamed for Luciano’s grandchildren Alessia and Stefano. The nose is a model of refinement, on the palate it’s threaded with fine tannins and good acidity, spicy and lively. No blockbuster, but should age well. Drink 2020-2032
Azelia, Bricco Fiasco, Castiglione Falletto 92
From 65-year-old vines at the same site as Scavino’s Bric dël Fiasc – its name in the local dialect. Smokiness may derive from the small barrels in which it was aged, but red fruit aromas penetrate through. Rich, full-bodied, spicy and intense thanks to its good acidity, with a solid, lively, long finish. Drink 2020-2032 Alc 14%
Bartolo Mascarello
92 POA Asset Wines Fragrant, raspberry nose that’s a touch austere, and while the palate is initially fresh, velvety and concentrated, it soon becomes assertive and austere, almost rigid. There is sweet underlying fruit, however, and good length, but it clearly needs time to open up. Drink 2021-2034 Alc 14%
Fontanafredda, Serralunga d’Alba 92
£37.50 Great Western Wine Aged in barriques and large casks. Delicate red fruits on the nose, unusually pretty and floral for on the lookout for disease, especially mildew. Conditions improved in late September and
into October, with warm days but cool nights. Hail was minimal, and mostly confined to Serralunga. (Interestingly, despite these difficulties Serralunga seems to have delivered
many of the best wines this year.) Yields were generally low; Elio Altare lost 60% of the crop. While some growers, such as Boglietti, Giacomo Fenocchio and Paolo Scavino, made their full range of wines, others had to make some big decisions. Cavallotto declassified all its Barolo to Langhe Nebbiolo (although some websites seem to be offering its ‘2014 Barolos’ for sale, so buyer beware). Others had to forego some of their cru wines because the crop was too low to justify a separate bottling. Instead, those grapes would be added to the regular Barolo bottling. Gianluca Grasso says the 2014 vintage wasn’t good enough to produce any of his single-vineyard wines, so he blended all the grapes into a single generic Barolo.
Giacomo Conterno says it was crucial to wait into October for full phenolic ripeness. He picked selectively which, although costly, helped to eliminate sub-standard fruit. But exposition and drainage in this hilly region forced growers into picking earlier than they would have liked. Enrico Rivetto wished he could have waited another 10 days, but mid-October rains made that impossible.
Early reports of the poor summer led many to write off the 2014 vintage, but it’s clear that many very good wines were made, mostly by leading producers with the means to be highly selective. What makes it a challenging vintage for consumers is the variation in style and quality – even within a single producer’s portfolio, single-vineyard bottlings can range from the alluring to the humdrum.
While some wines show astringency and leanness, the best have aroma, fruit purity, fine acidity and decent structure. It’s not a great or immensely ripe vintage, but it shouldn’t be underestimated. Some 2014s can be broached from as early as 2019 or 2020 and will give great pleasure; others will improve from 2023-2028. Only a handful of wines will benefit from extended cellaring beyond that.
It would be advisable to purchase and taste a single bottle before splashing out on a case, so striking are the variations in quality. And merchants need to offer the wines at sensible prices, especially with the more promising 2015s waiting in the wings.
Barolo riserva 2012
An inconsistent vintage, complicated by a cool, rainy spring, sporadic summer hail and rainfall in late August and early September. Hail did the greatest damage in La Morra and Barolo; however, Nebbiolo’s naturally thick skins allowed bunches to emerge unscathed.