Regional profile: Lugana

Straddling two administrative regions in central north Italy, this stilldeveloping DOC’s dry whites are already proving a versatile foodmatching choice in the restaurant trade. Stephen Brook gets to the heart of Lugana’s identity, and recommends a dozen o

This Italian region is a great source of food-friendly white wines, finds Stephen Brook

AloNg ThE SouThERN shores of the shimmering expanse of lake garda lie the towns of Desenzano, Peschiera and Sirmione, which for decades have welcomed hordes of tourists and the establishments catering to them: hotels, bars, pizzerias and all-you-caneat sushi emporia. And for a few miles to the south are vineyards, 11km from west to east, not considered of great interest until some 20 or 30 years ago. The best of them lay within the lugana DoC, which struggled to gain recognition, especially given the vast plantations of Soave not that far away.

Moreover, the main grape was a Trebbiano, though not related to the poorly regarded Tuscan Trebbiano. It was called Trebbiano di Soave or Trebbiano di lugana, until marketing wizardry transformed it into ‘Turbiana’. Now lugana had its own identity. It also benefits from a genetic connection – a kind of cousin – to the well-regarded Verdicchio grape of the Marche region.

lugana’s local catchment area contains thousands of thirsty tourists requiring aperitif wines, or something appetising and not too expensive to wash down their platters of lake fish. lugana fits the bill perfectly: easy to pronounce and infused, when properly vinified, with refreshing acidity.

‘Some years ago,’ explains luca Formentini, president of the lugana consorzio, ‘lake garda restaurants wouldn’t really feature the lugana wines. Sommeliers and bar owners were rather sniffy about them. But that’s all changed, and most restaurants will lead their wine lists with a dozen different wines from here. That contributes to a growing recognition of the quality of lugana wines, which is why the area under vine has expanded considerably.’

The opening of a golf course among the vineyards has also provided a welcome boost, as thirsty golfers visit the burgeoning number of tasting rooms at nearby wineries.

Across the divide

In 2009, there were 900ha under vine; today 2,400ha have been planted, with some 1,900ha in production. Most of the vineyards lie within the province of lombardy, but there are 300ha within the Veneto. Some prestigious newcomers have been purchasing land or vines here; Allegrini from Valpolicella, for instance, has acquired 40ha, a substantial commitment. There is no significant difference in terms of character or quality between the vineyards in either province, although it can lead to bureaucratic tangles. Above: aerial view showing

With wry amusement, the Lugana shrewd locale consorzio of Lake director Carlo Veronese explains: Garda and ‘having vineyards

vineyards in two provinces means there are two regulatory regimes, and slightly different tax regulations and rules concerning which products are acceptable in the vineyards. There are also two provincial ministers of

agriculture, who are in the same political party but not on good terms. But we manage!’ The vines are planted on deep clay soils,

and in some places morainic slopes deposited by glacial activity descending from the Alps. Producer Nunzio Ghiraldi is not alone in asserting: ‘Clay is the key to Lugana, as it gives the acidity.’ So the crucial factors for quality are the soils and the proximity to the lake,

which has a moderating influence. It also delivers a lot of humidity, requiring many growers to use anti-botrytis sprays and discouraging organic farming. There are some

exceptions, such as Pasini and Marangona.

Stylistic freedom

The vibrancy of a good Lugana is best tasted in the simple Lugana DOC wines, such as Selva Capuzza’s San Vigilio. Almost invariably aged in steel tanks, they are intended to be