Decanter

Ashes & Diamonds

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This exciting winery debuted just before last fall’s wildfires were threatenin­g Napa Valley. It’s a mix of old-style Cabernet and a new-style, salon-like tasting room with a punk rock music sensibilit­y. The distinctiv­e, bright

white building with its zigzag canopy and jazzy interiors is in the Oak Knoll district. It feels very open and mid-century California – quite different from the faux-Tuscan and architectu­ral statements that dot the valley.

The mastermind behind the winery is creative executive Kashy Khaledi, whose father owns Darioush winery. He calls it a ‘habitat for the wines’. Inspired by tastes of Napa Cabernets of the 1960s and 1970s, he had a romantic image of shaking things up by collaborat­ing with progressiv­e winemakers to revive the restrained style of that era. (The winery name comes from a 1950s Polish film.)

He lined up Steve Matthiasso­n and Diana Snowden Seysses (and, for one vintage, Dan Petroski of Larkmead Vineyards and Band of Vintners) and acquired the Oak Knoll property, which was planted with Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Then they all hunted out other vineyards from which to buy grapes.

So far there’s a fresh, zingy Cabernet Franc rosé, a bright Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon blend, a lush Cabernet Franc, and a few serious single-vineyard Cabernets, including one fascinatin­g cuvee for which Matthiasso­n painstakin­gly copied 1960s examples.

 ??  ?? Kashy Khaledi Diana Snowden Seysses Steve Matthiasso­n
Kashy Khaledi Diana Snowden Seysses Steve Matthiasso­n

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