Brook’s pick: top Austrian Blaufränkisch buys
Ernst Triebaumer, Mariental, Neusiedlersee- Hügelland, Burgenland 2015 95 N/A UK www.triebaumer.com Triebaumer’s Mariental has been one of Austria’s flagship reds since the 1980s. The vineyard lies north of Rust and has vines up to 60 years old. The magnificent 2015 has a sumptuous blackberry nose that’s more voluptuous than usual. Very rich and concentrated, it is balanced by fine acidity and has ample structure. The tannins are firm but elegant; the finish is lifted, peppery and very long.
Drink 2019-2035 Alcohol 14% Krutzler, Reserve, Eisenberg, Südburgenland, Burgenland 2016 93 £ 19.80 (2014) Savage Selection This wine has long been a perfect expression of the Eisenberg terroir, with its complex schist soils. Aged in older barriques, it has a bright, lifted, sour-cherry nose that’s vibrant too. Rich and fullbodied, with immense concentration and firm tannins, but despite the heft and power, it has tension and spice, and a long assertive finish. Drink 2018-2035 Alc 13.5%
Umathum, Kirschgarten, Leithaberg, Burgenland 2013
93 £44.67 Clark Foyster Although Pepe Umathum is a renowned red-wine producer on the east side of the lake, he is proud of this Leithaberg vineyard, which he has renovated. This is quite oaky on the nose, though the cherry and blueberry fruit remains pure and elegant. An understated wine, this has fine-grained tannins, good acidity and considerable drive and succulence. Complex and long.
Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14%
Altenburger, Gritschenberg, Leithaberg, Burgenland 2015 92 £46 Newcomer Wines
From old vines on limestone soils. The colour is not that deep, but the nose is fresh and zesty, with cherry and raspberry fruit in evidence. The richness is cut by lively, vigorous acidity and it’s concentrated without being heavy. Accessible and long.
Drink 2018-2026 Alc 12.5% Muhr – Van der Niepoort, Samt & Seide, Carnuntum, Burgenland 2016 92 £ 15.60 Justerini & Brooks The second wine from Dorli Muhr’s holdings in the Spitzerberg zone. Its name means ‘ Velvet & Silk’ in English. The nose is fragrant and pure, with charming cherry fruit. There’s a good attack that’s lean and stylish, but there are fine tannins too – and enough acidity to give lift and drive. Spicy and long. A real vindication of this limestone site, which Muhr helped to revive.
Drink 2018-2026 Alc 12.5% Prieler, Leithaberg, Burgenland 2014 92 £ 33.27 Clark Foyster This elegant expression of the variety blends two sites and sees no new oak. The refined nose has subdued cherry aromas.
It’s lean, silky and precise, delicate but concentrated, with a peppery, persistent finish that shows impeccable balance.
Drink 2018-2026 Alc 13% Reunion, Vision, Mittelburgenland 2015 92 N/A UK www. reunion-wein.com Fermented with natural yeasts and aged in new barriques, this wine comes from the outstanding Hochberg vineyard. It’s very deep in colour, with rich, suave, blackberry aromas and a stylish, oaky imprint. Plump and concentrated, it shows a weight of fruit balanced by fresh acidity. Fine length.
Drink 2019-2028 Alc 14% Wachter-Wiesler, Alte Reben, Eisenberg, Südburgenland, Burgenland 2014 92 £54 Newcomer Wines This wine from the Eisenberg appellation is an old-vine blend of Blaufränkisch sourced from four schist sites. It has a rich and vibrant nose with aromas of sour-cherry, followed by a lively palate that’s full-bodied yet with fine tannins, and a vigorous, peppery finish. Delicious fruit. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 13% Hannes Schuster, Sankt Margarethen, Burgenland 2014 91 £62 Newcomer Wines The winery used to be called Rosi Schuster, but son Hannes took over some years ago. This wine, which is aged in 500-litre barrels, comes from a village near Rust on the eastern side of the lake. It has a rich, brooding, cherry nose. It’s no blockbuster, but a delicate, medium-bodied style that still has structure and depth. Spicy, complex and long. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 12.5% Moric, Burgenland 2016 91 £ 26.72 Tannico Roland Velich is a master of Blaufränkisch and his single-vineyard wines come from the Mittelburgenland. Even this basic bottling is exciting. The nose shows opulent black fruits; blueberries steeped in vanilla, though he uses no new oak. Ripe and almost sweet, this is balanced by acidity that gives a slight sharpness to the palate. Red fruits on the finish, which is intense and long. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 12.5% Uwe Schiefer, Südburgenland, Burgenland 2016 89 £ 17.50 Highbury Vintners Uwe Schiefer is a passionate producer of single-vineyard wines from the Südburgenland. And this more basic bottling shows a lighter touch. There’s a muted black-fruits nose with a hint of liquorlce. It’s rich, suave, moderately concentrated and has surprising weight, but is also refreshed by acidity that gives ample length. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13.5% Wenzel, Aus Dem Kalk, Burgenland 2016 89 £ 22 Newcomer Wines Michael Wenzel in Rust is well known for his dry Furmint and noble sweet wines, but he also makes this charming red wine grown on limestone soils. Cherries and vanilla mark the nose, while the palate is quite rich and rounded, with texture, weight, bracing acidity and good length.
Drink 2018-2024 Alc 12.5%