Brook’s pick: best of Lugana’s dry whites

Le Morette, Benedictus 2016

92 N/A UK www.luganalemorette.it The nose is still tight and inexpressive, and this is mirrored on the palate, which is firm, concentrated and stony. There’s high acidity here, so it is still a very youthful and assertive wine, with a long mineral finish. Drink 2018-2028 Alcohol 13.5% Montonale, Orestilla 2013 92 £ 14.56 (2015) Christopher Keiller, Vin Cognito Complex nose with lush stone fruits and ripe quince aromas. The attack is firm and the palate concentrated, still showing a slight austerity, but it’s mineral and dense, and fine acidity gives persistence. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 13%

Cà dei Frati, Brolettino 2016

91 £ 19.28-£27.99 Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, Tannico There’s a reticence on the nose with apricot aromas emerging. Rich and creamy, this is full-bodied and concentrated, and the oak is apparent on the finish, which is nutty and quite long. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 13.5%

Cà Maiol, Fabio Contato 91

£30.26 Vinissimo The oak is clearly evident on the nose, without being overpowering. Indeed the palate is fresh and crisp, lean and almost racy. It may lack some depth of flavour, but it’s nutty and vibrant, showing precision and drive. Quite long, with an oaky finish. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 13.5%

Nunzio Ghiraldi, Il Gruccione 2016

91 £ 13.99-£ 15.97 Butlers Wine Cellar, Connolly’s, De Burgh, Gauntleys, Wadebridge Wines The mild, apple-like nose is a gentle prelude to this rich, full-bodied and concentrated wine. The fruit quality is delicious, with its nutty complexity, and overall there’s an admirable persistence of flavour. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 13.5%

Avanzi, Sirmione 2017 90 £ 14.49 (2015) Italyabroad There’s plenty of mild citrus fruit on the nose, then on the palate the attack is fresh and delicate, with light minerality and even austerity, but it’s concentrated and has a strong personality, as well as a long, bracing finish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13%

Ca’ Lojera, Riserva del Lupo 2015

90 £22.07 Tannico Subdued apricot aromas mark the nose, but the palate is rich and ripe with just a hint of sweetness. This is a big, fleshy, concentrated style with good if not exceptional acidity and plenty of weight. Quite long. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 14%

Citari, La Conchiglia 2017 90 £ 11.10 (2015) Christopher Keiller With a ripe, appley nose, this is rich and full-bodied with good weight of fruit. It’s supple and rounded on the palate without being heavy, and has appealing length. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 13%

Feliciana, Sercè Riserva 2015

90 N/A UK www.feliciana.it Vinified with partly dried grapes, this has a rich, lightly toasty nose. It’s juicy, full-bodied and concentrated, with good depth and weight. Perhaps lacks a little flair, but displays a solidly fruity style. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 14%

Ottella, Le Creete 2017

90 £21.50 Carruthers & Kent, Great Western Wine Reticent apple and apricot nose. Fresh and sleek, this is quite concentrated and shows a mineral tone and some salinity. A tangy Lugana with a perky finish and good length. Drink 2018-2026 Alc 13%

Selva Capuzza, Selva 2016

88 £ 17.99 AG Wines Ripe and appley on the nose. There’s a fresh, spicy attack leading onto a palate that is fairly concentrated and shows moderate acidity with a light minerality. It’s quite long, with a firm finish. Drink 2018-2025 Alc 13.5%

Zenato, San Benedetto 2017 86 £ 12.99-£ 15.99 Christopher Piper, Eurowines, Great Wines Direct, Ministry of Drinks Mild apple and apricot nose. Broad and juicy, ample fruit and moderate acidity, a touch soft and lacking a little verve on the fairly long finish. Drink 2018-2024 Alc 13%