The judges
Jim Budd
Contributing to Decanter since 1989. Budd writes the award-winning blog Jim’s Loire, and is one of the five members of the Les 5 du Vin blog in France. He contributes to Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book and is a keen photographer, especially in the Loire.
My top three
■ Domaine du Mortier, Dionysos,
St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 2016 From the clay-limestone slopes, a dense, deeply coloured wine, seductively textured with mouthfilling red and black fruits. Lovely balance, oak adding complexity. Organic, and one for the cellar. 97 Drink 2018-2030
■ Domaine Grosbois, Gabare, Chinon
2017 since returning in 2008 after working around the world, nicolas grosbois has taken it to another level. smoky nose, concentration and structure. Powerful, best kept a year or two. Certified organic. 97 Drink 2020-2025 ■ Château de Minière, Vignes Centenaires de Minière, Bourgueil 2015 Organic and from vines more than 100 years old, this is deeply coloured, opulently textured, concentrated and well balanced with a long finish. Can be enjoyed now or put away in the cellar. 96 Drink 2018-2022
Chris Kissack
Kissack has published www.thewinedoctor. com since 2000. He has focused on Bordeaux and the Loire for many years, and has been a frequent visitor to both regions since 1993. In the Loire, he writes regular first-hand reports on domaines, vineyards and harvests.
My top three
■ Yannick Amirault, Les Malgagnes Amphore, St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 2016 This top domaine is increasingly run by Yannick’s son Benoît, who is not afraid to experiment. From one of the appellation’s most revered vineyards, this cuvée is vinified in terracotta amphorae. 91 Drink 2018-2025
■ Domaine de la Noblaie, Pierre de Tuf,
Chinon 2015 Jérôme Billard is an up-andcoming superstar in Chinon. This cuvée comes from a selection of the best fruit at harvest, and it is vinified in a limestone vat. it shows well with bottle age. 90 Drink 2018-2022
■ Domaine Dozon, Clos du Saut au
Loup, Chinon 2017 After centuries of ownership, in 2013 the Dozon family sold this domaine to Eric santier, who up to then had been working with Bernard and Matthieu Baudry. Eric fashions wines of increased purity and freshness. 90 Drink 2018-2025
Ben Llewelyn
Llewelyn moved his family to France in 2007 to experience the life of a winemaker while studying for his MW, and in 2008 he set up the wholesale agency and importer Carte Blanche Wines, which leans towards producers who choose to make wine as naturally as possible.
My top three
■ Château de la Bonnelière, Le Clos,
Chinon 2014 From one of the larger family domaines with vineyards on the southern coteaux, this stood out for its classical lines and purity of fruit. One of a number of wines from the domaine that are worth seeking out and storing away. 97 Drink 2019-2029
■ Domaine Grosbois, Gabare, Chinon
2017 A single parcel of classic clay and limestone soil where the gradient rises to meet the forests. The scent and elegance typify the hallmarks of this terroir – an absolute classic. Farmed organically. 96 Drink 2020-2025
■ Domaine du Mortier, Dionysos,
St-Nicolas de Bourgueil 2016 Fabien and Cyril consistently produce some of the best (value) wines of this area and Dionysos, a selection of old vines, is one of their best. if you want to know what great st-nicolas should taste like, look no further! 95 Drink 2018-2030