Outstanding
(continued) 95–97pts
Château de la Bonnelière, Le Clos de la Bonnelière, Chinon 2014 95 JB 96 CK 93 BL 97
£17
Roberson, Vin Cognito Winemaker Marc Plouzeau, owner and face of Château de la Bonnelière, took over this 1848 château in 1988, adapting methods to bring a more natural approach to the wines. On the left bank of the Vienne, this 30ha estate produces a huge range of Cabernet Francs. The soils are divided into three specific types: clay-limestone, flint and gravel, all of which provide this estate’s unique characteristics. Le Clos de la Bonnelière is created from 35-year-old vines which thrive on a clay-limestone plot.
JB Smoky aromas with some notes of liquorice, finesse and charm, length. Ready to drink now but potential to age. Very attractive wine.
CK Fire embers and toast on the nose. Sweet red cherry and redcurrant, with chalky, perfumed vanillin notes coming through on the palate, dry and distinct. Bold, grippy with a long finish, lots of tannic structure.
BL Dense and brooding, albeit with mineral fruit underpinning the palate. There’s a lovely freshness to this. A good wine with characters of both vintage and terroir.
Drink 2019-2029 Alc 13%
Domaine du Mortier, Les Pins, Bourgueil 2016 95 JB 95 CK 95 BL 95
£22
Vine Trail Domaine du Mortier is situated centrally between Angers and Tours, and importantly only uses organic grapes from its organic and biodynamic certified vineyards. Grapes for Les Pins are from a single parcel of vines averaging 60 years of age, on soils of clay and chalk. Whole bunches go into an open-top, 50hl wooden vat, with the fermentation initiated using lees from previous vintages. The wine is aged for 10 months in oak before being bottled.
JB Black fruit aromas, some cherries, lovely soft texture, mouthfilling black fruits, powerful wine with some structure and a long finish. Some oak showing at present, so ideally kept for another couple of years.
CK Blackcurrant with a touch of old school desk. Dark and restrained, suggesting a savoury style. Rather perfumed too though, a palate with substance, breadth and energy, dark and vibrant fruit, zippy acidity too. Lovely purity of fruit, with little grilled pip notes, praline edges too. Energetic and grippy. This is very good.
BL Strongly put-together wine with identity and structure. A great wine. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 13.5%