Out­stand­ing

(con­tin­ued) 95–97pts

Decanter - - CHINON, BOURGUEIL, ST-NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL -

Château de la Bon­nelière, Le Clos de la Bon­nelière, Chi­non 2014 95 JB 96 CK 93 BL 97

£17

Rober­son, Vin Cog­nito Wine­maker Marc Plouzeau, owner and face of Château de la Bon­nelière, took over this 1848 château in 1988, adapt­ing meth­ods to bring a more nat­u­ral ap­proach to the wines. On the left bank of the Vi­enne, this 30ha es­tate pro­duces a huge range of Cabernet Francs. The soils are di­vided into three spe­cific types: clay-lime­stone, flint and gravel, all of which pro­vide this es­tate’s unique char­ac­ter­is­tics. Le Clos de la Bon­nelière is cre­ated from 35-year-old vines which thrive on a clay-lime­stone plot.

JB Smoky aro­mas with some notes of liquorice, fi­nesse and charm, length. Ready to drink now but po­ten­tial to age. Very at­trac­tive wine.

CK Fire em­bers and toast on the nose. Sweet red cherry and red­cur­rant, with chalky, per­fumed vanillin notes com­ing through on the palate, dry and dis­tinct. Bold, grippy with a long fin­ish, lots of tan­nic struc­ture.

BL Dense and brood­ing, al­beit with min­eral fruit un­der­pin­ning the palate. There’s a lovely fresh­ness to this. A good wine with char­ac­ters of both vin­tage and ter­roir.

Drink 2019-2029 Alc 13%

Do­maine du Mortier, Les Pins, Bour­gueil 2016 95 JB 95 CK 95 BL 95

£22

Vine Trail Do­maine du Mortier is sit­u­ated cen­trally be­tween Angers and Tours, and im­por­tantly only uses or­ganic grapes from its or­ganic and bio­dy­namic cer­ti­fied vine­yards. Grapes for Les Pins are from a sin­gle par­cel of vines av­er­ag­ing 60 years of age, on soils of clay and chalk. Whole bunches go into an open-top, 50hl wooden vat, with the fer­men­ta­tion ini­ti­ated us­ing lees from pre­vi­ous vin­tages. The wine is aged for 10 months in oak be­fore be­ing bot­tled.

JB Black fruit aro­mas, some cher­ries, lovely soft tex­ture, mouth­fill­ing black fruits, pow­er­ful wine with some struc­ture and a long fin­ish. Some oak show­ing at present, so ide­ally kept for an­other cou­ple of years.

CK Black­cur­rant with a touch of old school desk. Dark and re­strained, sug­gest­ing a savoury style. Rather per­fumed too though, a palate with sub­stance, breadth and en­ergy, dark and vi­brant fruit, zippy acid­ity too. Lovely pu­rity of fruit, with lit­tle grilled pip notes, pra­line edges too. En­er­getic and grippy. This is very good.

BL Strongly put-to­gether wine with iden­tity and struc­ture. A great wine. Drink 2018-2028 Alc 13.5%

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