Outstanding
95–97pts
Ata Rangi, Lismore Pinot Gris, Martinborough 2017
Decanter average score: 95/100pts Individual judges’ scores: Melanie Brown 95 Rebecca Gibb MW 93 Roger Jones 96 £23-£27.99 Carruthers & Kent, Exel, Laithwaite’s, Liberty Wines, The New Zealand Cellar Ata Rangi was founded in 1980 by Clive Paton, on a stony sheep paddock in Martinborough. Appropriately, the name Ata Rangi means ‘dawn sky’ or ‘new beginning’, which suits Paton’s pioneering decision to plant vines rather than be a farmer – a move that has certainly paid dividends. Today, Ata Rangi is world-famous for its Pinot Noir, but this Lismore Pinot Gris, made by winemaker Helen Masters, shows that the estate is no one-trick pony. It comes from the Lismore vineyard, which is situated just north of Martinborough town.
Melanie Brown Bright, upfront, crunchy Braeburn apple notes are supported by beautiful complexity, with creamy nuances. Beautiful structure and poise here: balanced, seductive and beautifully textural.
Rebecca Gibb MW Fresh, round, satisfying and eminently drinkable, this is a fruity and fresh Pinot Gris, with excellent texture and concentration that’s beyond the average.
Roger Jones Focused, linear, savoury vegetation – but shows control on the palate, which is delicate with perfect fruit and still holds some evolving acidity. A fabulous wine with amazing purity and class.
Drink 2018-2022 Alcohol 14%
Burn Cottage, Riesling-Grüner Veltliner, Central Otago 2015
95 MB 95 RG 95 RJ 95 £47.99 Carruthers & Kent, Liberty Wines, The New Zealand Cellar Located in Central Otago, Burn Cottage encompasses an estate of 24ha, which is surrounded by hills, protecting it from the harsh northern and southerly winds that contribute to its unique microclimate. The property was bought in 2002 by the Sauvage family, owners of the Koehler Ruprecht estate in Germany. Ted Lemon of California’s Littorai is the consultant winemaker, producing Pinot Noir, but also this interesting blend of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, which is grown biodynamically on east-facing slopes, in very small quantities – together the two varieties make up just over 1ha of the total plantings at Burn Cottage.
MB This wine embodies a synchronicity between Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, which allow each other’s flavours to be enhanced and enjoyed. It’s an intriguing balance of the two varieties and offers beautiful fruit concentration, with plentiful personality, depth and elegance.
RG A rich and pure expression that has now softened its acid-led edges. There’s an apple, almost savoury flavour spectrum, with the acid and phenolics combining to provide a gourmandise finish. High level of concentration suggests low yields. A medium-length finish.
RJ A beautiful, clean, fresh and vibrant style that’s drinking perfectly. Delicious multi-dimensional purity throughout.
Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13% ➢