Cel­e­brat­ing dif­fer­ence

Decanter - - LETTERS -

An­DreW Jef­fOrD ex­PlOres ‘na­tional char­ac­ter’ in wine (Septem­ber 2018), a sen­sory marker that al­legedly can tran­scend dif­fer­ences in style or even site. One such marker is the streak of green leaf or herb that one finds in so many wines from Chile. Jef­ford wishes that this ‘Chilean cast’ would fade away, and that Chilean wines would ‘ef­face the mem­ory of plant and leaf and ten­dril’.

Why? not so that the wines could ex­press nu­ances of ter­roir, as read­ers might as­sume, but in­stead so that they might con­vey ‘pu­rity and charm of fruit’. But these are in­ter­na­tional traits, fre­quently over­pow­er­ing na­tional or re­gional dis­tinc­tive­ness. It is what makes a great deal of con­tem­po­rary wine seem ho­moge­nous. Jef­ford else­where has dis­par­aged overt, fruit-driven in­ter­na­tion­al­i­sa­tion. What has changed now? Paul Lukacs, Loy­ola Univer­sity Mary­land

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