What I’ve been drinking this month

I loved the Chateau Dereszla, Amethyst Tokaji Furmint 2016 served by friends recently: fresh, tender, delicate. They gleefully told me they’d bought it at £4.99 from Lidl: clearly below cost price. A little research, though, revealed that Dereszla’s former owner Patrick d’Aulan had sold the 54ha estate to Lőrinc Mészáros, a close associate, ally and supporter of Hungary’s Prime Minister Viktor Orbán – a politician whose ideals are the polar opposite of my own. Suddenly this Furmint didn’t taste so good. A glass of wine is not a wholly autonomous object.