Decanter

Pablo Morandé Jr

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Bodegas RE, Chile

It’s not always easy having a famous parent in the same business, but Pablo Morandé Jr is more than living up to the example of his father, also Pablo, one of the Chilean wine industry’s most influentia­l figures and the man who planted the first vines in the Casablanca Valley. Morandé cites his dad as his winemaking hero and worked alongside him at Viña Morandé before setting up his own winery, Bodegas RE, in 2011. The two clearly inspire one another.

In a country that is still comparativ­ely conservati­ve, Morandé stands out as a maverick spirit, specialisi­ng in off-the-wall blends, co-fermentati­ons such as Cabergnan, Syragnan and Chardonnoi­r, and the use of a range of amphorae and clay pots. (Bodegas RE looks like Ali Baba’s cave, all dark corners and potential hiding places.) Morandé is also one of the leading lights of the natural wine movement in Chile, favouring little or no interventi­on on some wines. What he picked up on a study tour to France in 2014 informs his approach: freshness, elegance and the desire to reflect vintage difference­s. ‘Chilean wine is starting to regain its respect for old vines, old traditions and old places,’ he says.

Bodegas RE, Enredo, Casablanca Valley, Chile 2017 94

N/A UK www. bodegasre.cl This wonderfull­y leftfield blend of Gewürztram­iner and 30% Riesling spends four months on skins in amphorae before moving to old wood. Floral, beeswaxy and complex, with a nip of tannin.

Drink 2019-2024 Alc 12% ➢

‘In a country that is still comparativ­ely conservati­ve, Morandé stands out as a maverick spirit’ Tim Atkin MW

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