Barnes’ pick: top South American Criolla wines to try
Miguel Torres Chile, Estelado Organic Sparkling Wine Extra Brut, Secano Interior, Chile 2015 90 £ 14.99 Auriol, Latitude, Lewis &
Cooper, Taylor’s Fine Wine This golden blanc de noirs País is Torres Chile’s latest innovation following on from its bestseller brut rosé. It’s crisp and linear in character, with fresh strawberry and blossom notes. Drink 2018-2020 Alcohol 12%
Roberto Henríquez, Rivera del Notro Blanco, Itata Valley, Chile 2017 94
£ 21.40 Wines Under the Bonnet Wonderfully aromatic, honey-coloured old-vine blend: Criolla varieties Moscatel and Corinto with a touch of Semillon. Dried flowers, hay and peach aromas, full but fresh. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 12.2%
Bouchon Family Wines, País Salvaje Blanco, Maule Valley, Chile 2017 91
£ 16 Condor Wines This artisanal white País is sourced from wild 100-year-old vines. It’s a textural wine with bright citrus, apple and pear notes and a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 11.5%
Garage Wine Co, Single Ferment Series, Phoenix Ferment, Secano Interior, Chile 2017
90 £ 15 Bibendum An innovative blend of 86% País and 14% Carignan, with grip and tannin making it a great foodie white. This special enprimeur bottling series is an initiative to support local growers affected by 2017’s bush fires. Drink 2018-2020 Alc 13.1%
A Los Viñateros Bravos, Volcánico País, Itata Valley, Chile 2015
93 £ 15.99 Les Caves de Pyrene From centenarian vines on volcanic soils. Forest herbs and red berry aromas, finesse and fine-grained tannins on the palate. Leo Erazo’s label with independent growers of Itata. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 12.5%
Cara Sur, Criolla, Calingasta, San Juan, Argentina 2016
93 £ 28.50 Drinkmonger, Good Wine Online, Vagabond The Cara Sur wines helped to put Argentinian Criolla on the map and this rarity, which is a 100% Criolla Chica, comes from 80-year-old vines grown at high altitude ( 1,500m). Delicate, floral, silky tannins, and so light that it’s almost ethereal. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5%
Roberto Henríquez, Santa Cruz de Coya País, Bío Bío, Chile 2017
93 £ 21.40 Wines Under the Bonnet Sourced from 200-year-old vines which are grown on Henríquez’s own 3ha vineyard in Bío Bío, where he works with old raulí wood barrels to achieve a semi-carbonic maceration. Vibrant, fragrant and elegant style – you’ll need a second bottle. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 12%
Cadus, Signature Series Criolla, Uco Valley, Argentina 2017 91
£ 15.99 Boutinot 90% Criolla Grande, 10% Criolla Chica, as planted in the vineyard. Fruity and fresh, this juicy red has aromas of freshly cut strawberries with thyme. After the discovery of a parcel of old vines in Vista Flores, this is the first vintage of Criolla for Cadus – and a triumph. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5%
Clos des Fous, Pour Ma Gueule, Itata Valley, Chile 2016
91 £ 12.70-£ 13.99 Carruthers & Kent, Exel, Liberty Wines This País blend proves the great potential of Chile’s old-vine blends. Translating from the French as ‘ for my gob’, the juicy black cherry aromas make your mouth water with a lively finish and smooth tannins. Ultimately gluggable. Drink 2018-2022 Alc 14%
Bouchon, Las Mercedes, Singular País, Maule Valley, Chile 2016
91 £ 13.50 Corkage, Starmore Boss, The Sampler A sprightly País with bright and juicy notes of cherry, rosehip and raspberry tart and a crunchy, aromatic finish. A fabulously fresh new direction for Bouchon in Maule. Drink 2018-2021 Alc 13.5%