Dom PŽrignon 2008

Decanter - - URUGUAY -

On a June morn­ing at the French Am­bas­sador’s pri­vate res­i­dence in Lon­don, Richard Ge­of­froy, chef de cave for Cham­pagne Dom Pérignon, pre­sented the long-awaited 2008. This was an his­toric mo­ment, for on 1 Jan­uary 2019 he will pass the ba­ton as chef de cave to Vin­cent Chap­eron, with whom he has worked closely since 2005. Ge­of­froy’s first vin­tage was the 1990, also pre­sented in its ‘troisième pléni­tude’ or P3, a pow­er­ful wine that has be­come creamy with ma­tu­rity while re­tain­ing the re­duc­tive ten­sion that has be­come its hall­mark – de­scribed by Ge­of­froy as ‘not con­serv­ing acid­ity, more man­ag­ing ra­di­ance’. Also served in its P2 ma­tu­rity was the 1996, an ‘ex­tra­or­di­nary wine that sparkles’, which Ge­of­froy thinks may well be matched by the 2008 in time. Here are his words to de­scribe the vin­tage he leaves us with: ‘2008 was dom­i­nated by over­cast skies and it was the month of Septem­ber which saved the day. Ma­tu­rity sur­passed all ex­pec­ta­tions. Af­ter a long pe­riod of re­luc­tance, it is open­ing up in com­plete bal­ance, the slen­der, pure, ath­letic char­ac­ter is now also ex­pressed with warmth, the fruit is pro­nounced and clear, the aro­matic per­sis­tence re­mark­ably in­tense.’ I gave it a mod­est 98/100pts.

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