David vs Go­liath

Decanter - - LETTERS -

Yes, Many smaller Cham­pagne grow­ers ‘are dy­ing out’ (‘Let­ter of the Month’, Oc­to­ber 2018). Tyson stelzer (Au­gust 2018) is right. Cham­pagne con­sump­tion in France is fall­ing ev­ery year. many of these grow­ers re­alise they have no op­tion but to stop sell­ing their (of­ten medi­ocre) wines. They de­cide to sell their grapes to the houses, who of­fer a great price per kilo – and pay soon af­ter the har­vest. But it’s pri­mar­ily the non­de­script grow­ers who are suf­fer­ing.

When it comes to Cham­pagne grow­ers there are, as the French say, ‘ deux vitesses’. There are grow­ers who are ‘dy­ing out’ and there are ‘won­der boys’ – am­bi­tious and zeal­ous, artis­tic and dis­ci­plined. They do a great job in the vine­yard and in the cel­lar. Their names – Francis egly, Pierre lar­mandier, anselme selosse, Cé­dric Bouchard, Frédéric savart, Pas­cal agra­part, Del­phine Boulard, Benoît la­haye, Vin­cent laval, raphaël Bérêche and oth­ers – are well known in France and be­yond. They com­pete with the big names like Krug, louis roed­erer, Bollinger and Pol roger to men­tion just a few. The com­pe­ti­tion is tough. as I point out in my book, Cham­pagne: The Fu­ture Un­corked, qual­ity and di­ver­sity in Cham­pagne is higher than ever, thanks to that. Gert Crum, Nether­lands

I Too Was most in­ter­ested to read Tyson stelzer’s ar­ti­cle high­light­ing the plight of small grow­ers in the face of large com­mer­cial Cham­pagne houses ( Au­gust 2018). I hope that annabelle Hind-Brown (‘Let­ter of the Month’, Oc­to­ber 2018) can find so­lace in the mag­num of Bollinger you will send for her star let­ter and not the bit­ter taste of irony! Do­minic Daven­port, by email

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.