Château Nénin

Decanter - - POMEROL -

When Jean-Hu­bert Delon of Château Léoville Las Cases pur­chased Nénin in 1997, he re­viewed prun­ing and trel­lis­ing meth­ods, re­planted or up­rooted vines and mod­ernised equip­ment. Age­ing and stor­age cel­lars were ex­tended and com­pletely re­fit­ted, and air con­di­tion­ing was added. The wines had been some­what bor­ing given the qual­ity of the soils: many grow on the great clay-gravel ter­roirs of the Pomerol plateau. ‘The vine­yard was get­ting old, yields were too high and the in­fra­struc­ture ob­so­lete,’ says di­rec­tor Pierre Graf­feuille. It has taken some time for the changes to show in the wine, which bills it­self as a vin de garde. In­deed it dis­plays the most ‘Left Bank’ char­ac­ter of all the es­tates in this ar­ti­cle, but the 2015 shows more el­e­gance than the 2005.

Château Nénin 2015 92

£42-£44 (ib) Corkr, Crump Rich­mond Shaw, Fine & Rare A lit­tle closed, but shows po­ten­tial for the longer run, mak­ing it more like a Left Bank wine. The 33% Caber­net Franc dom­i­nates the blend at this early stage, but with time in glass the wine re­veals more charm, with bright fruit and mid-palate sap. In­ter­est­ing to note how the sec­ond wine, at 14.5% al­co­hol, al­ready ex­udes fi­nesse; a good choice for lovers of clas­sic style claret. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14%

Château Nénin 2005 90

£ 50 (ib)-£79.40 Grand Vin, Mil­lésima, Wilkin­son Vint­ners An at­trac­tive minty, al­most eu­ca­lyp­tus nose, with red cherry bright­ness; how­ever, it’s not as dense or long as the 2015. In­deed, while the 2015 is a lit­tle closed, the tan­nins here come across al­most hard by com­par­i­son, mak­ing the wine less charm­ing than you’d ex­pect from a Pomerol. The blend con­tains 74% Mer­lot and 26% Caber­net Franc. Drink 2018-2030 Alc 14%

Above: Château Nénin

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.