Mayson’s pick: 25 top 2016 vintage Ports

Wines listed by score, then in alphabetical order by producer

Graham’s, The Stone Terraces 99 £ 106.67 (ib) Cru, IG Wines, Jeroboams, Montrachet Fine Wine, Wineye Mostly Touriga Nacional from stone-walled terraces at Quinta dos Malvedos, Graham’s flagship estate. While closed on the nose, there is a hint of liquorice and dark chocolate. Big and dense on the palate, it shows a dark chocolate intensity and broad tannins rising to a massive peacock’s tail of a finish. An absolute ‘wow’ of a wine, this is made in tiny quantities, but it has been fabulous every time I’ve tasted it. This has to be the wine of the vintage – if you can get hold of a bottle. Drink 2035-2055 Alc 20%

Quinta do Noval, Nacional 99 £655 (ib)-£720 Goedhuis & Co, H2Vin & Quintessentially, L’Assemblage , Montrachet Fine Wine, The Oxford Wine Co Tiny yields from these legendary ungrafted vines, with a total production of just 170 cases in 2016. Closed and dense initially but showing liquorice-like super-ripeness as the wine opens up. A hint of dark chocolate intensity on the palate with layer upon layer of ripe fruit and broad, fine-grained tannins, all the way through to a fine, linear, tannic finish. This is a wonderful wine, as rare as hen’s teeth and a privilege to taste at this stage. Drink 2035-2055 Alc 20%

Dow’s 98 £ 51.50 (ib)-£89.99 Widely available via UK agent Fells Based on Touriga Franca with Touriga Nacional and Sousão. Tight-knit, with rapier-like tannins – a ramrod all the way through, with the opulent flesh of the fruit on the finish. Fine-grained with great purity and expression. Leaner and more restrained in style than others: Dow’s drier style works really well in ripe years such as 2016. Outstanding wine for the long term. 5,480 cases. Drink 2035-2055 Alc 20%

Graham’s 98 £42.50 (ib)-£89.99 Widely available via UK agent Fells Super-ripe and expressive plum fruit and dark chocolate aroma. Rich, plummy opulence backed by dark chocolate intensity and spicy tannic grip, then big and bold on the finish. Voluptuous, with fabulous richness. This is one for the long haul but is already flattering and very, very impressive. Production of 6,325 cases. Drink 2030-2055 Alc 20%

Warre’s 98 £43 (ib) Widely available via UK agent Fells Nearly 50% of old field blend vines of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca from the Douro Superior. Very pure violet aromas; already utterly charming with lovely supple, seamless fruit. Fresh and lithe with fine-grained tannins building to a peacock’s tail of a finish. A beautiful wine with real poise, definition and finesse. Don’t be deceived by the early charm – this wine will last. 4,250 cases. Drink 2030-2055 Alc 20%

Fonseca 97 £49 (ib)-£66.85 Widely available via UK agent Mentzendorff Closed and withdrawn on the nose at this stage with an underlying dusting of ripe tannins evident. Firm, sweet cassis and berry fruit, with classic dark chocolate intensity at the core, backed by broad yet tight-knit peppery tannins which lead to a big, grippy finish. All there and very fine with a hugely promising future ahead. Drink 2035-2055 Alc 20%

Quinta do Noval 97 £ 52 (ib)-£79.99 Widely available via agent Gonzalez Byass UK The dense nose opens to reveal dark chocolate intensity with a leafy edge. Ripe and minty initially on the palate with lovely purity of fruit, sweet cassis and broad, grippy tannins. Not as big or immediately impressive as some wines from this vintage, but showing great balance and poise from start to finish. A wine for the long term. 6,000 cases. Drink 2030-2055 Alc 20%

Quinta do Vesuvio, Capela do Vesuvio 97 £76.67 (ib) Davy’s, Justerini & Brooks, Portugal Vineyards Only the third Capela vintage to be released, from 90-year-old vines plus Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Franca and Sousão from neighbouring plots. More brooding on the nose than the straight Vesuvio and deliberately drier in style but with similar underlying ripeness and powerful tannins. Just 3,000 individually numbered bottles. Drink 2035-2055 Alc 20%

Cockburn’s 96 £ 37.50 (ib)-£69.99 Widely available via UK agent Fells A Douro Superior blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with Alicante Bouschet and Sousão. Relatively restrained on the nose but with underlying ripeness and intense dark cassis backed by powerful yet fine-grained tannins. Big and broad on the finish. A wine for the long haul. Excellent value: Cockburn is truly back on form. 2,450 cases. Drink 2030-2055 Alc 20%

Taylor’s 96 £ 55 (ib)-£68.08 Widely available via UK agent Mentzendorff Dense and heady nose with an attractive green, leafy edge. A plump palate with lovely bright cherry and damson fruit; nicely defined but not as big as some. Firm tannins on a long, linear finish which shows off the lovely purity of fruit. 6,500 cases. Drink 2030-2055 Alc 20%

Quinta do Vesuvio 95 £40 (ib) Widely available via UK agent Fells A relatively high proportion of Alicante Bouschet ( 17%) with Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Lovely warm country aromas – ripe, open and very full. Super-ripe cassis flavours, broad and fleshy, weighty tannins yet lovely definition. Finishes with a powerful flourish. Impressive. 1,220 cases. Drink 2030-2050 Alc 20%

Offley 94 £62.99 Corney & Barrow, Portugal Vineyards The blend includes 45% Touriga Franca and 45% Touriga Nacional, mostly from the Torto Valley. Closed nose; very tight-knit. Expressive berry fruit and minty ripeness on the palate backed by firm, peppery tannins, leading to a spicy, dusty, tannic finish. A lovely wine; could be the bargain of the vintage. Drink 2028-2050 Alc 20%

Sandeman 93 £ 51-£61.50 BI, Corney & Barrow, Exel, Farr Vintners, Fine & Rare, Hedonism, Lea & Sandeman, Mr Wheeler Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca (40% each) with Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão and Sousão. Closed and dense nose; the palate shows the powerful spicy tannins that have become the hallmark of Sandeman in recent years. Serious Port – not as extracted as previous years and well balanced for a long future. Drink 2032-2055 Alc 20%

Smith Woodhouse 92 £ 27.50-£ 28.33 (ib) Widely available via UK agent Fells Entirely from Quinta da Madelena in the Torto Valley, primarily a field blend of old vines. Open, fragrant, ripe cherry and floral fruit aromas with a hint of tar-like intensity. Well-defined fruit with fine-grained, peppery tannins leading to a long, sinewy finish. Leaner style than others from the Symington Estates. Drink 2028-2045 Alc 20%

Croft 91 £ 39.16 (ib) Widely available via UK agent Mentzendorff Based on fruit from Quinta da Roeda. Plummy aromas, minty ripeness, a touch of hedgerow. Palate in the recent Croft mould, described as Rubenesque: soft, with voluptuous fruit, ripe tannins blossoming on the finish. Approachable early. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 20%

Ferreira 91 £82.99 Berkmann From Quinta do Porto and Quinta do Caêdo, 45% Touriga Franca with Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Sousão. Closed at the outset, but a touch floral with lovely, pure, ripe bramble fruit beneath. Tight-knit, with seamless, fine-grained tannins on the finish. Great promise for the medium to long term. Drink 2025-2045 Alc 20%

Barros 90 £ 33.21 Portugal Vineyards 40% Touriga Franca, 30% Tinta Roriz, 20% Touriga Nacional and 10% Tinta Barroca. Ripe plum and berry fruit on the nose and palate, with an austere green edge emerging. Plump style and a stocky finish. Should be good value for the medium to long term. Drink 2025-2045 Alc 20%

Quinta da Romaneira 90 £ 38.54 Lea & Sandeman From a huge, mostly south-facing estate, using a blend of older parcels of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca. Exotic and beautifully fragrant, full of mint and violets; lovely purity of fruit, finegrained tannins. Not that big but balanced, with a firm, spicy finish. Drink 2022-2035 Alc 20%

Quinta de Roriz 90 £ 30 (ib) Davy’s, Justerini & Brooks Includes grapes from a 30-year-old Touriga Nacional vineyard with Sousão picked early. Not giving much away on the nose, but the palate is soft and sweet: nicely defined summer fruit, a touch of dark chocolate and refined tannins. Medium term. Drink 2025-2040 Alc 20%

Churchill’s 89 £ 33 (ib) Appellations, Corney & Barrow, Ellis of Richmond, Farr Vintners, Firth & Co, Wineye Heady, spirity and rather jammy aromas. Bold, verging on overripe, yet with a green edge. Rich style. Hefty fruit with tannins that are rich and satisfying but not showing much finesse at this stage. 2,000 cases. Drink 2028-2050 Alc 20%

Dalva 89 £ 34.17 Corney & Barrow Quite restrained aromas, with lovely purity of fruit emerging both on the nose and palate. Well-defined, fresh and ripe cherry, backed by slightly rustic tannins. Loose-knit now but should develop well. Drink 2028-2045 Alc 20%

Niepoort, Bioma Vinha Velha 89 £ 33 (ib) Dunell’s, Fareham Wine Cellars, Tanners, Uncorked Niepoort made Bioma in 2016, an organic Port from old vines on a single estate. Still needs time

to knit together but very charming. The palate is soft and fleshy, with a hint of liquorice, but quite light overall. Drink 2028-2045 Alc 20%

Kopke 88 £ 36.84 Portugal Vineyards From 60% old field blend vines and 40% Touriga Nacional. Fragrant, open, brambly fruit is quite loose-knit. A soft and sweet palate initially with some firm tannins building; light- to mid-weight, with a fresh finish. Drink 2024-2045 Alc 20%

Quinta Vale D Maria 88 £ 29.17 (ib)-£ 37.50 Corney & Barrow, Tanners From a well-placed single estate in the Torto Valley. Ripe, balanced fruit with a soft cassis character backed by firm tannins that rise in the mouth. Mid-weight overall with a slight green edge on the finish. Drink 2024-2040 Alc 20%

Burmester 87 £43.88 Portugal Vineyards An even blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca from the Douro Superior. Ripe, exuberant nose but a rather medicinal berry fruit palate. Rather disjointed now. Drink 2028-2045 Alc 20%