The summary
Though no wines wowed, our judges found a good range of full-bodied reds, spanning reliably traditional and more modern styles. James Lawther MW reports
The prospecT of two leading lights in the Languedoc, Minervois La Livinière and Terrasses du Larzac, going head to head over two notable years, 2016 and 2015, gave an air of expectancy to this tasting. The judges’ enthusiasm was palpable, hence the disappointment with the results at the end of the day. The highlights just seemed wanting; the upshot being an absence of any outstanding or exceptional wines in either category.
Were the judges over-expectant? seventeen highly recommended (nearly a third of the wines tasted), with almost two-thirds recommended is an honourable score, but it was the ultimate lack of excitement that tipped the scales. one possible reason is that the 2016s, accounting for more than half the wines tasted, are
rather firm and reserved at the moment. I had already heard this explanation from producers, particularly in Terrasses du Larzac, and the theory was supported by the fact that a wine that won platinum at the Decanter World Wine Awards back in early May only received a recommended score here. The 2016 vintage is good but it’s a keeper with marked acidity and structure, so bide your time and enjoy later. certainly 2016 fared better than 2015, the generosity of the latter seemingly absent.
As to the individual appellations, Justin howardsneyd MW felt there was probably more consistency in style among the wines from Minervois La Livinière. ‘They tend to be syrah-dominated and fruit-forward and stylistically more recognisable.’ simon field MW, who
Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their latest release reds from the Languedoc appellations of Terrasses du Larzac and Minervois La Livinère only
wrote his Master of Wine thesis on Minervois La Lavinière in 2001, found the standard correct, but felt that there hadn’t been much evolution in the intervening years.
Overall, all the judges commented on one point: how the winemaking often submerged the terroir. There were definitely a number of wines where over-extraction and the use of (new) oak seemed heavy-handed. That said, it’s worth pointing out that the highest scoring Minervois La Livinière wine came from an unoaked blend of one third each Carignan, Grenache and Syrah.
Of the top 20 highest-scoring wines, 14 came from Terrasses du Larzac, the appellation also getting closest to the elusive Outstanding note. This in itself is recognition of how far this young appellation has come, and reconfirms the positive results seen at the 2018 Decanter World Wine Awards. There were plenty of new names sitting alongside the more established domaines like Montcalmès and Mas Cal Demoura.
Stylistically, though, there is far greater variability, the wines ranging from elegant to those that are deeper and riper, with some more profound in nature and clearly constructed for ageing. All this goes hand-in-hand with the extent of the Terrasses du Larzac appellation and the disparity in terroir and blends.
This was highlighted by the profiles of three of the top-scoring wines. Mas des Brousses 2016 includes 50% Mourvèdre and has depth, structure and minty complexity. The multi-blend of Château Capion 2016 (37% Syrah, 25% Grenache, 23% Cinsault, 15% Mourvèdre) offers a slightly riper note but equal depth and reserve, while Clos du Prieur 2016 – from a higher, cooler site with 70% Syrah – is all about elegance and finesse.
The message in the end seems to be to go with Minervois La Livinière for fruit, accessibility and the comfort zone. But if you accept stylistic variability, then Terrasses du Larzac is the one pushing the boundaries.
‘Go with Minervois La Livinière for the comfort zone, but Terrasses du Larzac is pushing the bounds’