Regional profile: Corbières
Traditionally known for its good-value rustic red blends, this Languedoc heartland region is forging a new reputation for quality and great terroirs. James Lawther MW heads south for a visit
Quality and terroir have become the new watchwords for this Languedoc region, explains James Lawther MW
IT’S THE SIZE and rugged beauty that assails you. Corbières is such a massive chunk of land and within its borders the terrain is so wild and resplendent. Rocky garrigue harbours bush-trained and trellised vines as well as pine, cherry, almond and olive trees, with fir and oak in the higher reaches. Some of the hillside vineyards seem incredibly remote, yet the major cities of Carcassonne and Narbonne to the north and Perpignan to the south are never far away, with the beach resorts of the Mediterranean adjacent to the east.
Viticulture has always been the mainstay of the region. When I first visited in 1997 there were just over 14,000ha of AP Corbières declared, producing an average 600,000hl, the equivalent of 80 million bottles. These days the figure stands at 10,600ha with an output of 390,000hl or 52m bottles, but it is still the Languedoc’s leading appellation by volume.
Given the size, there’s an inevitable contrast in terroirs. Soils are predominantly limestone-clay but there are zones of schist and sandstone, and enough variability to interest students of pedology. The climate is Mediterranean, but dependent on the proximity to the sea, altitude (50-500m), exposure and varying rain pattern – not to mention the passage of the humid sea wind, the Marin, or the dry northwesterly Cers – so the ripening varies, as does the quality and character of the wines.
The local authorities designated 11 different terroirs in Corbières some time ago, but realising the difficulty of transmitting the message, they are now promoting a more user-friendly plan of five touristic zones. These include the lower-lying maritime stretch with its lakes and pink flamingos; the hilly HautesCorbières to the south with its Cathar history; Boutenac, which has already acquired cru status; the northwest corner, which falls within the shadow of the Montagne d’Alaric and which also has a moderating Atlantic influence; and finally the plain and lower hills that stretch from Lézignan-Corbières to Narbonne in the northeast.
Classic Carignan
When all is said and done, though, it’s the ability to transmit the true expression of Corbières via these terroirs that matters,
and to my mind the most important vehicle for this is the Carignan grape variety. Twenty years ago it was denigrated for its rusticity, but with lower yields and later harvesting a depth of fruit and riper tannins have been added to its hallmark colour, acidity and herbal notes. ‘With Carignan, it’s all about yield,’ says Sophie Guiraudon of Clos de l’Anhel, where output turns around 25-30hl/ha.
Both carbonic maceration and classic methods are used for vinification, but Corbières’ greatest asset – and this despite much grubbing up – is the quantity of old, bush-vine Carignan (some more than 100 years old) that still exists.
And as time goes on and severe heat and drought become an annual occurrence, producers are realising that this is the grape variety best adapted to local conditions, so new plantings have been stepped up. Sensibly, producers in the Corbières-Boutenac cru established the precedent of a minimum 30% Carignan in the vineyard when the rule book was agreed in 2005.
Other grape varieties found in red Corbières blends include Grenache, which adds fruit and volume and is also resistant to the dry
conditions, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Mourvèdre, being later-ripening, prospers in the hotter zones, particularly with a maritime influence, so tends to be located in vineyards closer to the Mediterranean, and when successful provides structure and aroma. Syrah can add complexity and finesse, but clearly there is a growing concern over its ability to contend with the hot, dry weather, so site is primordial.
From 2019 a maximum 10% of the Cabernet Sauvignon-Grenache cross, Marselan, will also be permitted in the varietal mix of each property. The argument is that it copes well with the heat and drought, but the question is will it radically alter the style of Corbières? We will have to wait and see. ‘There’s already a palette of interesting varieties, so why open it up to outsiders like Marselan?’ asks Jon Bowen of Domaine Sainte Croix. Other changes include increasing Grenache Gris from 10% to 50% of the range for rosé and the addition of Carignan Blanc (up to 30%) and Viognier (up to 10%) for whites. These represent just 3% of the production, but can be surprisingly fresh and appetising.
Dynamic quality
The multitude of smallholdings has meant that cooperatives have always been an important factor, when it comes to the social fabric of the region. Over the past 20 years their number has diminished from 54 to 23, and yet they still account for 50% of production. Some, such as the Cave d’Embreset-Castelmaure, have taken the necessary steps to ensure quality and do a great job.