Notes & queries
Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge
Bordeaux drinking windows; Bacchus; wine investment safeguards
Bordeaux drinking windows
In your articles about Pessac-Leognan and the Bordeaux 2008 vintage (‘The story of an appellation’ and ‘2008: a decade on’, Bordeaux 2018 issue), I was surprised to see tasting notes for young Bordeaux showing a narrower drinking window (21-23 years) than the older wines (37-40 years), despite the fact that techniques, winemaking and viticulture have evolved and improved since that time. For example: Domaine de Chevalier red 1986, drink by 2026; Domaine de Chevalier red 2017, drink by 2040; Domaine de Chevalier red 2008, drink by 2032. Why is this? Bassam Cordahi, Lebanon Jane Anson replies: It’s an interesting question. I think the perceived discrepancy stems from the fact that I’m reluctant to give a drinking window for a young wine that is so wide as to render it meaningless. The windows given for the younger wines are reflective of when they will be ready to begin drinking but will still have retained the plumpest fruit and be firmly on the plateau of drinking for most of us, who have palates that respond to wines that retain a rich and deep fruit expression. But in truth Bordeaux often surpasses expectations of ageing – one can open a wine that is at its peak, and know that it will stay there for a good decade longer (I would use the Domaine de Chevalier 1986 as an example). Some older wines clearly need drinking up, but with others it seems unfair to discount the pleasure they are still giving, even though the flavours are definitely tertiary in nature – more undergrowth and walnut than cassis and charred oak. But I wonder if we should have some other way to indicate when they are really in the last chance saloon... Anyway, a great question that made me think about my approach to these windows – thank you so much for asking.
Bacchus: grape or god?
Ernest Hemingway wrote of ‘Bacchus wine’ in his 1929 novel A Farewell to Arms. I have read several articles that say the Bacchus grape was developed around 1933. Is there a different type of ‘Bacchus wine’ or is there is a mistake in the timeframe of origination? Steven Daniels, by email Michael Hart replies: In A Farewell to Arms, Hemingway makes several rapid-fire mentions of ‘Bacchus’ towards the end of Chapter 7; however, here he refers not to a particular kind of wine or a grape, but rather the Roman god of wine and ecstasy, known for inspiring ancient Roman Bacchanalias – festivals that included parades, theatrical performances, and copious consumption of wine. In this scene, the novel’s protagonist, Frederic Henry, is convinced to prove his drinking abilities, ‘by the corpse of Bacchus’, in a revelrous night of wine guzzling. But just as Bacchus inspires revelry, he can also provoke destruction. In a bid to outdrink his companions, Henry misses an appointment with Catherine Barkley, his lover, straining their already tenuous relationship.
Investment uncertainty
I have been contacted by a wine investment company and have been trying to find out more about them, but can see very little online other than review sites, which I am aware can be manipulated. Their address also appears to be the same as that of another company with a previous bad history. Is there such a thing as a list of reputable wine investment companies? Sarah, by email Jim Budd replies: There is no official list. However, my Investdrinks site (http:// investdrinksblog.blogspot.com/) does list
investment companies that I would not use. The internet offers considerable research options. UK Companies House offers a free Beta service giving access to accounts, directors’ details, and so on. Look for any compulsory strike-off notices, usually due to failure to file accounts or confirmation statements on time. Also look at the company’s own website – are there any details of the directors or sales force? Or is the site just full of waffle? Is the company’s address real or just an accommodation address?
Your question contains a big clue about the company, as it sounds as though you have been cold-called. No legitimate investment firm cold-calls. Who called me? ( https:// who-called.co.uk/) is a useful site, which lists details of cold-calling companies.