Decanter

A taste of the top 2017 Burgundies

Wines are listed by commune, from north to south, then by score, then alphabetic­ally by producer. The 2017s are bottled in January 2019, hence prices and stockists are not yet set. Contact specialist merchants for allocation­s, or to enquire about en prime

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Gevrey-Chambertin

RED WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine

Dugat- Py, Chambertin Grand Cru 99 Just when you think the Dugat-Py range can’t get any better… this is mind-blowing! Focused, floral and beguiling with balletic poise, supple, fine-grained tannins and notes of rose petal, wild strawberry and tangerine. Incredible concentrat­ion and length from 90-year-old vines. The Mazisand Mazoyères- Chambertin­s are a point below at 98. Drink 2027-2035 Alcohol 13%

Domaine Denis Mortet, Chambertin

Grand Cru 98 It’s close, but this is even better than the Mortet Mazis- Chambertin in 2017 (scoring 97), made with what Arnaud Mortet says are some of the most beautiful grapes he’s ever seen. From a 0.15ha plot of 60-yearold vines, it easily handles its 100% new oak, such is its precision, texture and concentrat­ion. One of my wines of the vintage. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%

Domaine Armand Rousseau, Ruchottes

Chambertin Grand Cru 97 The freshest and best balanced of the domaine’s grands crus in 2017. Tangy, bright and refined, it has chiselled acidity, fine-grained oak, lacy tannins and superb focus and balance. Long and very satisfying. The 1er Cru Clos St-Jacques scored 96. Drink 2027-2035 Alc 13%

TOP QUALITY Domaine Denis Bachelet,

Charmes- Chambertin Grand Cru 97 From two parcels of old vines, totalling 0.44ha right on the edge of Mazoyères. The resulting wine is as brilliant as ever, showing sumptuous red fruit sweetness, stylish 50% new wood, filigree tannins and the racy complexity of this great site. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 13%

Domaine Drouhin- Laroze, Latricière­s

Chambertin Grand Cru 97 My pick of the Drouhins’ grands crus in 2017, partly because of the freshness of its cooler terroir. Intensely focused orange zest and black cherry fruit, pithy, chalky freshness and plush, enveloping tannins. Latricière­s was one of the outstandin­g sites in 2017. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%

Domaine Faiveley, Latricière­s

Chambertin Grand Cru 97 The best of the Faiveley grands crus in 2017. Smoky, scented and alluring, with well-handled 40% new wood, this is a precise, elegant, chiselled red with sweet summer pudding flavours and a chalky aftertaste. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%

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