Atkin’s top 10 producers to watch
■ Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay ( Volnay)
■ Domaine Chantal Lescure (Nuits-StGeorges)
■ Domaine Dominique Cornin (Pouilly-Fuissé)
■ David Moreau (Santenay)
■ Domaine de L’Evêché (Mercurey)
■ Domaine GuillemotMichel ( Viré- Clessé)
■ Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut (Chambolle-Musigny)
■ Domaine LaunayHoriot (Pommard)
■ Domaine Lecheneaut (Nuits-St- Georges)
■ Mark Haisma (négociant)
Domaine Fourrier, 1er Cru Clos
St-Jacques 97 A wonderfully dense, layered expression, with flavours of liquorice, plum, black cherry and strawberry, granular tannins and laser-like focus. The pick of the Gevrey premiers; Fourrier’s Griotte Grand Cru also scored 97. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Fourrier,
Latricières- Chambertin Grand Cru 97 One of Jean-Marie Fourrier’s finest in 2017. Fresh, nuanced and detailed, this is a hauntingly complex wine from a 53-yearold parcel. The Chambertin Grand Cru is just as good. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13.5%
Morey-St-Denis
Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche Grand
Cru 97 This is a complete, self-confident wine with good density and concentration, sappy, spicy undertones, fine-grained fruit and tannins and a very long, tapering finish. Dujac’s Clos St-Denis is just a notch lower at 96. Drink 2027-2035 Alc 13.3%
Domaine Ponsot, Grand Cru 96 The Ponsots’ 3.5ha of Monts Luisants and Clos de la Roche produce a fine, elegant, floral cuvée with no new oak, plenty of precision and freshness and a sweet core of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine Hubert Lignier, Vieilles
Vignes, 1er Cru 95 The Faconnières and Chenevery premiers crus combine to give a deep, structured cuvée from this increasingly impressive domaine. Rich and spicy, it has 25% stems and 30% new oak, showing precision and fine tannins. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13%
Mark Haisma, 1er Cru Les Chaffots 94 Haisma has been making this wine (from vines next to Clos St-Denis) since 2012, but this is the best release yet. Fresh, sappy and bright, it has integrated whole-bunch notes and 30% new wood. Impressive stuff from this Aussie micro-négociant. Drink 2023-2029 Alc 13%
Chambolle-Musigny
TOP QUALITY Domaine Georges Roumier, Musigny Grand Cru 98 Christophe Roumier’s parcel of Musigny is just 0.0996ha, but it is always one of Burgundy’s greatest wines, sourced from old vines planted in 1905. Made with 80% whole bunches and 80% new oak, it’s sappy, focused, succulent and beautifully poised with very fine tannins and a sweet core of lacy, refreshing fruit. Close to perfection. Drink 2023-2032 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Comte Georges
de Vogüé, 1er Cru Les Amoureuses 97 Another brilliant 2017 from François Millet and the best Chambolle premier cru of the vintage. Remarkable purity, focus, length and precision. This has 20% new oak with red cherry and wild strawberry flavours. The domaine’s Bonnes Mares Grand Cru also scored 97. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine Drouhin- Laroze, Musigny
Grand Cru 97 An excellent 0.2ha parcel of 60-year-old vines. Effortlessly handling its 100% new oak, it’s a precise, focused, very elegant rendition of Musigny. The sappy, chalky, refreshing minerality supports a palate of juicy summer berry fruit flavours. Classy winemaking. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%
Domaine Robert Groffier, Bonnes- Mares
Grand Cru 97 The 1ha of vines here may be 80 years old, but this is not a powerful Bonnes-Mares. Floral, juicy, sumptuous and exotic, with a core of sweet bramble and raspberry fruit, it’s a beautifully judged wine from a stellar winemaker. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13% Domaine Ghislaine Barthod, 1er Cru Les Charmes 96 Barthod’s two parcels of Charmes can make one of her more reticent wines. That’s far from the case in 2017 though, as this is all about rose petals and summer berries, bright, vivacious acidity, subtle 30% new oak integration and a sweet, lingering finish. Drink 2023-2029 Alc 13%
Domaine Jacques- Frédéric Mugnier,
1er Cru Les Amoureuses 96 Not quite love at first sip, but not far off. This is a characteristically svelte, refined Amoureuses from Fred Mugnier. It has rose petal and peony aromas, fineboned tannins and a sweet, caressing finish. Drink 2024-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine Cécile Tremblay, 1er Cru Les
Feusselottes 95 This pure, stylish, effortlessly elegant wine is as good as some people’s grands crus: fine and nuanced, with subtle layers of intertwined fruit, oak and chalky minerality. Drink 2023-2029 Alc 13%
Jean- Marie Fourrier 95 Fourrier makes this village Chambolle under his expanding négociant label, sourced from a single supplier. It’s stylish, scented and abundantly floral, built around raspberry and red cherry fruit complemented by granular tannins and spicy oak. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13%
Vougeot
Château de la Tour, Hommage à Jean Morin Vieilles Vignes, Clos de Vougeot
Grand Cru 96 Made every year, but not always released, this is a small-parcel tribute to François Labet’s grandfather, made with vines
planted in 1910. It’s a textured, hedonistic red with firm tannins, flavours of mulberry, incense and Asian spices, and the density to age. Drink 2026-2032 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Denis Mortet, Clos de Vougeot
Grand Cru 96 Located just below Château de la Tour, Arnaud Mortet’s parcel runs to 0.35ha. Made with 30% stems and 70% new oak, it has plenty of texture, smooth tannins and layers of sweet, sensuous red berry fruit. Drink 2025-2030 Alc 13.5%
Domaine Hudelot- Noëllat 1er Cru Les
Petits Vougeots 95 Only planted in 1980, this 0.5ha parcel always produces a scented, hedonistic Pinot in the hands of Charles van Canneyt. It’s crunchy, juicy and vibrant, with chalky minerality and enticing raspberry and red cherry fruit. His Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru scored 96. Drink 2023-2029 Alc 13%
Vosne-Romanée
TOP QUALITY Domaine de la Romanée- Conti, Romanée- Conti Grand
Cru Monopole 98 Not quite as thrilling as the 2016, but still a special wine that lives up to its exalted reputation – if not its exalted price. Quite forward at this stage, it is sweet, textured and floral – all summer pudding, tobacco and minerality with a peaty undertone and a fresh, taut, self-assured finish. The Romanée St-Vivant and La Tâche scored 97; Grands-Echezeaux and Richbourg 96; Echezeaux 95. Drink 2028-2037 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Hudelot
Noëllat, Richebourg Grand Cru 98 A 0.29ha plot averaging 55 years, there’s lots of concentration and complexity here. It’s one of the reds of 2017, with a heavenly perfume of wild strawberry and summer orchard fruit, fine-grained tannins, sweet spices and refreshing minerality. Stunning! The domaine’s Romanée St-Vivant scored 97. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13.5%
TOP QUALITY Domaine du Comte Liger- Belair, La Romanée Grand Cru
Monopole 97 From vines more than 100 years old, this is focused, grippy and intense, with serious, fine-grained tannins, layers of bramble and blueberry fruit, clove spice, chalky freshness and the concentration to age further in bottle. A superb expression of this special vineyard. The Echezeaux scored 96. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Dujac,
Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru 97 Brilliant wine! Fermented with 100% stems and aged in 60% new oak. Taut, focused and showing the monastic austerity the vineyard is famous for, this is very floral, chalky and incredibly long. The Echezeaux scored 96. Drink 2023-2035 Alc 13%
Domaine Jean Grivot, Richebourg
Grand Cru 97 The best wine from this domaine for the third vintage in a row. Deceptively easy to taste from barrel, it’s a soprano of a wine: elegant, refined and sensuous with beautifully pitched, chalky precision, a hint of earth and subtle wild strawberry fruit. Stunning! Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine JJ Confuron,
Romanée-St-Vivant Grand Cru 97 This excellent domaine is not as famous as it should be; this wine might change that. Serious, spicy and intense, from vines first planted in the 1940s. Savoury, focused and beautifully weighted, it has a winning combination of freshness and oceanic depth. Superb! Drink 2024-2035 Alc 13%
Benjamin Leroux, 1er Cru Au Dessus des
Malconsorts 96 A little-known premier cru high on the slope of Vosne-Romanée next to NuitsSt- Georges. This wine is refined, delicate and floral, with crunchy redcurrant and pomegranate notes and two-thirds whole bunches contributing some sap and clove spice. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 13%
Domaine Georges Noëllat 93 One of my village Burgundies of the year – a superb Vosne from Maxime Cheurlin. It’s everything you’d expect from 2017: stylish floral perfume, layers of bramble, red cherry and raspberry fruit, succulent tannins and well-handled 50% new oak. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13% Nuits-St-Georges Domaine Georges Noëllat, 1er Cru Cras 95 This (and 1er Cru Boudots) is superb in 2017. Subtle, elegant and refined, with layers of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, aromatic 60% new oak, fine-grained tannins and refreshing acidity. Hauntingly beautiful. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 13%
Domaine Henri Gouges, 1er Cru Les
St- Georges 95 Appealingly aromatic and not as dense and brooding as it can be, this is a stylish, spicy, savoury red with good focus and a backdrop of blood and iron. The 1er Cru Vaucrains and Clos des Porets are also very good. Drink 2024-2029 Alc 13%
Domaine Robert Chevillon, 1er Cru
Pruliers 95 One of an impressive array from Chevillon (including 1er Crus Roncières, Les Cailles, Vaucrains and Les St- Georges, all scoring 95). Considerable freshness, detail and precision, showing floral aromas, sweet spice, juicy red berry fruit and a focused, chalky finish. Drink 2023-2028 Alc 13%
Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, 1er Cru Aux
Thorey 95 I can’t recall a more appealing sample of this premier cru. From Sébastien Cathiard, it’s from a 0.43ha parcel planted in 1953. Wonderful sweetness, acidity, structure and plush black cherry and orange zest flavours. Drink 2022-2028 Alc 13%
Domaine Chantal Lescure, Damodes 94 Damodes can be either a village wine or a premier cru and here it’s the former. A serious, dense, beautifully framed Nuits from very old vines. It is balanced, layered and intense with fine aromas and a chiselled, mineral-edged finish. Will be stunning value. Drink 2023-2029 Alc 13% Domaine Lecheneaut, 1er Cru Damodes 93 Philippe and Vincent Lecheneaut are making increasingly impressive wines at their family domaine. This shows subtle reduction, skilful oak integration, layers of texture, granular tannins and a fresh finish. Drink 2023-2029 Alc 13% Other Côtes de Nuits
Albert Bichot, 1er Cru Clos de la Perrière,
Fixin 93 Made with purchased grapes, this is an exceptional wine from the highest premier cru in Fixin. Focused and refined, with racy natural acidity, 30% whole clusters and stylish oak, this has a hint of good reduction and a core of crunchy cranberry and cherry fruit. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13%
Domaine René Bouvier, Clos du Roy,
Marsannay 93 Clos du Roy has long been considered the supreme terroir of Marsannay, and this 70year-old parcel wouldn’t look out of place in a line-up of Gevrey premiers crus. Polished, perfumed and refined with sap from 50% stems, fine-grained oak and chalky freshness. Drink 2022-2027 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Jean Tardy,
La Place, Fixin 91 Guillaume Tardy bought this 0.41ha lieudit in 2006 – a smart move given how land prices have increased since. The 45-yearold vines have given mulberry and sweet spice flavours and appealing texture with 30% new wood. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13%
Corton
Domaine Faiveley, Corton- Charlemagne
Grand Cru 97 Hard to beat in 2017, this comes from cool, east-facing vineyards that ripen slowly, even in a warm year. Focused, pithy and fizzing with energy, it’s a rich, dense wine with 40% new oak, creamy lees and a tangy mouthwatering finish. The Clos des Cortons Faiveley Grand Cru Monopole red scored 96. Drink 2020-2029 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Bonneau du Martray,
Corton- Charlemagne Grand Cru 96 The change of ownership at this historic domaine has not affected quality. This is elegant, textured and saline with superb precision and understated power, with suble toasty oak and notes of lemongrass and jasmine. The Corton Grand Cru red is equally as good. Drink 2021-2029 Alc 13%
Domaine de la Vougeraie, Charlemagne
Grand Cru 96 This wine, always labelled simply as Charlemagne, is an intense, stylishly oaked white of great presence and weight, showing flavours of vanilla, coconut, lemon butter and nectarine. Thrilling minerality. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 13%
Domaine des Croix, Corton
Charlemagne Grand Cru 96 David Croix’s brilliant white shows aromas of flinty, struck-match reduction, a leesy, waxy, layered palate, subtle wood, a twist of aniseed and a focused, chiselled finish. His Corton La Vigne au Saint Grand Cru red is just as fine. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13%
Pommard
Domaine de Courcel, 1er Cru Grand
Clos des Epenots 95 The best of the De Courcel reds in 2017. Intense, scented and rich, this has aromas of incense, white pepper and forest floor, with lots of dark, inky fruit, grainy tannins, balancing freshness and good acidity on the finish. Drink 2026-2035 Alc 14%
Domaine de Montille, 1er Cru Pézerolles 95 One of my favourite Pommards of 2017 – a focused, mineral, chalky red that wouldn’t look out of place in Volnay. Crunchy and refined with complexity from 30% whole clusters and 30% new oak. Rugiens-Bas also scored 95. Drink 2024-2032 Alc 13%
Albert Bichot, Domaine du Pavillon, 1er
Cru Rugiens- Bas 94 Impressive winemaking has given a classic interpretation of this outstanding premier cru. Serious and deep, with 50% new oak and 30% whole clusters, it’s sappy, firm and ageworthy but shows nothing in the way of rusticity. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine Launay- Horiot, 1er Cru
Rugiens- Bas 94 Those who find southern Pommards a bit austere will love the best 2017s. This is one: stylish 50% new oak binds a textured, floral red with savoury strawberry and bramble fruit and just enough ferrous intensity. Drink 2022-2029 Alc 13%
Volnay
Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, 1er Cru Clos des Ducs Monopole 97 One of the great wines of the vintage in 2017. Powerful, structured and complex with layers of red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate, sinewy tannins and pools of concentration. Stylishly oaked, long and mineral. Taillepieds and En Champans both scored 96. Drink 2025-2035 Alc 13%
Domaine Lafarge, 1er Cru Clos des
Chênes 96 The Lafarge wines are among Burgundy’s most delicate, but don’t lack intensity or concentration. Chalky, pithy yet sweet and alluringly fruity, this is a transparent, nuanced expression of a great terroir. Les Caillerets and Clos du Château des Ducs are equally as good. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay,
1er Cru Les Caillerets 95 There are only two (old) barrels of this impressive bottling, fermented with 50% whole bunches. Sweet, textured and rich, with layered bramble and black cherry, silky tannins and aromatic spices. A very fine expression of arguably Volnay’s best terroir. Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.3%
Domaine de Montille, 1er Cru
Les Taillepieds 95 Often the most complete of De Montille’s Volnay premiers crus. Floral, malty and nuanced, this isn’t overly marked by its 100% whole bunches, partly as the wine has such depth, freshness and acidity. Drink 2025-2032 Alc 13%
Meursault
Domaine des Comtes Lafon, 1er Cru Les Charmes 97 Charmes escaped frost in 2016, so
yields were down in 2017, but Dominique Lafon is more than happy with 20 barrels of this leesy, nutty, textbook Meursault from his 1.85ha parcel. Smoky, fresh and finely oaked, it’s a complex, complete wine. Perrières, Genevrières and Poruzots all scored 96. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Roulot,
1er Cru Perrières 97 The Roulots’ 0.26ha parcel here is better postitioned than their Charmes. This is a superb wine, up with some of the best whites of 2017. Partician and aristocratic, it’s everything you want from a Meursault: finesse, weight, balance, minerality and amazing length. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 13% Domaine Arnaud Ente, La Sève du Clos 96 Vines from this plot are 120 years’ old, which makes them the most venerable in Meursault. The soils are richer here but this is not a heavy wine. Instead it’s tangy, nettley and savoury, with flavours of grapefruit and gooseberry on a textured, rich palate. Drink 2020-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine François Mikulski, Vieilles
Vignes, 1er Cru Les Charmes 96 From vines planted in 1913 and made without new oak, it’s a focused, layered, sumptuously aromatic Meursault showing pastry and orange zest with a crunchy, mineral fiinish. The pick of Mikulski’s premier crus. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13%
Benjamin Leroux, 1er Cru La Pièce sous
le Bois 95 This brilliant white comes from vineyards planted in the 1930s. Saline, chalky and lighly oaked, it’s like a top grand cru Chablis from Les Preuses or Blanchot. Leroux’s Blagny red 1er Cru La Pièce is also very good. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 12.8%
Puligny-Montrachet
WHITE WINE OF THE VINTAGE Domaine de la Vougeraie, Chevalier
Montrachet Grand Cru 98 Outstanding! This comes from a 0.18ha parcel that always seems to produce a brilliant white. Waxy and aromatic, with sappy oatmeal, citrus and wet stone notes, this is floral, layered and effortlessly nuanced with one-third new oak to enhance its complexity. The domaine’s Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet scored 97. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 12.5%
TOP QUALITY Domaine des Comtes
Lafon, Montrachet Grand Cru 97 After a near wipe-out in 2016, this super Montrachet is back with interest in 2017, producing five barrels from 0.32ha. Rich, complex and hauntingly balanced, it’s textured, layered, powerful yet ultimately long and fresh. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Faiveley,
Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru 97 In a very good year for Côte de Beaune grands cru whites (provided people didn’t pick too late), this stylish expression is up with the best. Focused, serious and dense, with richness and concentration, scented oak, baking spices and palate-cleansing acidity. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 12.5%
TOP QUALITY Domaine Leflaive, Bienvenues- Bâtard- Montrachet Grand
Cru 97 Leflaive’s Bienvenues is generally less powerful than its Bâtard (scoring 97, along with Chevalier-Montrachet). But what it lacks in weight it makes up for in precision. Tangerine and pink grapefruit segue into a textured, fresh finish embellished by oak. The Folatières and Combettes 1ers Crus both scored 96. Drink 2022-2032 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Etienne Sauzet,
Chevalier- Montrachet Grand Cru 97 When it’s as good as this, ChevalierMontrachet is every bit as exciting as more famous and expensive Montrachet. This one is particularly delicate and refined. Tangy, crunchy and mouthwateringly fresh, it’s a brilliant wine that wasn’t easy to make in 2017. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 13%
TOP QUALITY Pierre-Yves Colin- Morey,
Chevalier- Montrachet Grand Cru 97 One barrel is all Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey makes of this stunning grand cru, and there’s a long waiting list to get hold of a bottle. But we can dream… It is chiselled, focused and even a little closed right now, but with the promise of considerable riches to come. Drink 2021-2032 Alc 12.5% Domaine de Montille, 1er Cru Le Cailleret 95 This comes from the same slope as Montrachet and it shows in the wine’s quality and class. Taut, textured and beautifully weighted, it’s a white that will drink well at every point in its life. Long and mineral. Drink 2020-2029 Alc 12.8%
Domaine Jacques Carillon, 1er Cru
Les Referts 95 It’s always hard to choose between this domaine’s Referts and Perrières – so why not buy both (and the Puligny village blend)! This offers a winning blend of honey, patisserie and scented oak, with pink grapefrut acidity and impressive concentration. Drink 2020-2026 Alc N/A
Chassagne-Montrachet
TOP QUALITY Benjamin Leroux,
Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru 97 The best of négociant Benjamin Leroux’s whites in 2017 – and there’s competition for that distinction. It’s stony and richly textured with nutty, mineral complexity, stylish oak and a hauntingly refreshing finish. The 1er Cru Tête de Clos scored 96. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13% TOP QUALITY Domaine Jean- Noël Gagnard, Bâtard- Montrachet Grand Cru 97 One of the whites of the vintage from a domaine that excelled in 2017. Sappy, floral and poised beeswax, citrus, pear and orange zest with stylish 50% new oak. Caroline l’Estimé’s Les Caillererets (arguably the best 1er Cru in Chassagne) scored 96. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 13%
Domaine Paul Pillot, 1er Cru La Grande
Montagne 97 It’s not easy to choose one, so impressive is the overall range, but this is my favourite of Thierry Pillot’s Chassagne premier crus this year. Adroitly oaked, it blends texture and density with stunning freshness and minerality on the palate, finishing long and focused. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13%
Pierre-Yves Colin- Morey, Bâtard
Montrachet Grand Cru 97 All the plushness and power of a great Bâtard, with incredible concentration, yet it’s not a tiring wine to drink as the minerality and freshness kick in on the palate, bringing crunchy zip to the peach and quince fruit. Drink 2021-2030 Alc 13%
Other Côte de Beaune
Pierre-Yves Colin- Morey, 1er Cru En
Remilly, St-Aubin 96 A very complete expression of this welllocated site. It has weight and intensity but is still very fresh, with the balance,
focus and precision you expect from the domaine. The best St-Aubin of the vintage, followed by his 1er Cru Chatenière (scoring 95). Drink 2020-2029 Alc 12.8%
Joseph Drouhin, 1er Cru Clos des
Mouches, Beaune 95 There aren’t many Côte de Beaune vineyards that make world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but Clos des Mouches is one. Effortlessly stylish, intense and textured, with scented 30% new oak, vivid minerality, citrus and patisserie notes. Drouhin’s 1er Cru Grèves red is also excellent. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Anne- Marie & Jean- Marc Vincent, 1er Cru Les Hautés,
Auxey- Duresses 94 Everything Jean-Marc Vincent makes is worth buying, but this stunning village wine – better than a number of grands crus in 2017 – is doubly so. From 80-yearold vines, it is savoury, subtle and leesy with lovely oak integration, effortless grace and poise. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 13%
Domaine Hubert Lamy, 1er Cru Les
Murgers des Dents de Chien, St-Aubin 94 Fans of top Chablis will find themselves on familiar territory with Olivier Lamy’s wines, which rarely see new wood and have intense, chalky minerality. Older vines give a little more concentration and weight here, but this is still a very chiselled style. The 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is just as good. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 12.5% TOP VALUE Alex Gambal, St- Romain 92 Acquired by Alex Gambal in 2015, this sixparcel, 3ha hillside holding is among the best-value white Burgundies of 2017. Sappy and floral, it has lemon, lime and struck-match notes and very well handled 10% new wood. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Mischief & Mayhem,
Pernand-Vergelesses 91 The Raggs source this new wine from one grower in the Belles Filles lieu-dit, making a wine that delivers in flavour, complexity and value. Fresh, chiselled and stylishly oaked, it will appeal to Puligny drinkers on a budget. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 13% TOP VALUE Domaine Michel Mallard, Ladoix 90 The most northerly vineyard in the Côte de Beaune is also an excellent-value white Burgundy. Fermented in 30% new oak, it’s a bright, tangy, sappy wine that wouldn’t look out of place in Puligny-Montrachet. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13% Domaine Anne- Marie & Jean- Marc Vincent, 1er Cru Beaurepaire, Santenay 95 I’d love to slip this amazing wine into a blind tasting of Côte de Beaune grands crus – it wouldn’t be outclassed. With stylish struck-match aromas, it’s textured, refreshing and mineral with subtle 10% new oak, vivid acidity and oyster shell and citrus flavours. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 13%
David Moreau, 1er Cru Beaurepaire,
Santenay 93 Every bit as good as the wine he makes under his Meursault Les Pellans label, this is not dissimilar in style. Sensitive oak, creamy, leesy and balanced, with vanilla spice, bright acidity and pear and citrus fruit. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13%
Domaine des Croix, 1er Cru Grèves,
Beaune 95 From a 0.3ha block in what David Croix calls ‘our little grand cru’. Subtle, fine and long, it’s ripe, juicy and very drinkable, with filigree tannins, clove spice from 25% whole bunches and well-integrated oak. Drink 2023-2029 Alc 13%
Domaine Michel Mallard, 1er Cru Les
Maréchaudes, Aloxe- Corton 94 A début confirming this domaine as a rising star of the Côte de Beaune. Fermented with 50% stems and aged in one-year-old oak, it’s savoury and complex with fine tannins, raspberry sweetness and savoury complexity. Toppe au Vert 1er Cru scored 93. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 13%
Domaine Simon Bize, 1er Cru Fourneaux,
Savigny-lès Beaune 93 This is a serious Savigny (if that’s not an oxymoron, since the village is known for the elegance of its wines) with impressive freshness and focus, fine-grained tannins and a lengthy spicy and sappy finish. Drink 2021-2027 Alc N/A
TOP VALUE Domaine de Bellene,
Vieilles Vignes, Savigny-lès Beaune 91 Nicolas Potel has done an impressive job with his domaine reds and whites in 2017. This alluringly perfumed Pinot Noir is light, sappy and racy with redcurrant and raspberry fruit and just a hint of oak. Drink 2020-2024 Alc N/A
Côte Chalonnaise
Domaine Bruno Lorenzon, Pièce XV,
Mercurey 1er Cru 94 A vineyard selection of Lorenzon’s best Chardonnay. It’s a brilliant white, showing stony and fresh mineral and tangerine notes with deftly integrated oak. His 1er Cru Clos de Barraults scored just as highly. Drink 2020-2026 Alc N/A
TOP VALUE Domaine Paul & Marie Jacquesson, 1er Cru Les Margotés,
Rully 92 From one of Rully’s best premiers crus. With well-judged 20% new wood, it has subtle struck-match aromas and floral top-notes, a leesy texture and crunchy acidity. Drink 2019-2021 Alc N/A
TOP VALUE Domaine Bruno Lorenzon,
1er Cru Truffière, Montagny 92 A rare detour outside Mercurey for Bruno Lorenzon here (the vineyard belongs to his wife). This wine is smooth, profound and textured, with impressive density and scented oak. Drink 2020-2024 Alc N/A
Domaine François Lumpp, 1er Cru Clos
du Cras Long, Givry 95 From one of the best locations in Givry, this is a fine, nuanced red with floral, complex berry fruit, a backbone of tannin, savoury oak and enough concentration to age in bottle. Lumpp’s Clos Jus is equally excellent. Drink 2021-2028 Alc N/A
TOP VALUE Domaine François
Raquillet, Vieilles Vignes, Mercurey 92 A superb old-vine cuvée: sweetly oaked, with an appealing interplay between red plum and strawberry fruit. Tangy acidity and Asian spices complete the picture. Great value. Drink 2020-2024 Alc N/A
TOP VALUE Domaine Tupinier- Bautista,
1er Cru En Sazenay, Mercurey 92 From 50-year-old vines, this offers great freshness and lightness of touch in 2017. It’s balanced and elegant, with raspberry and redcurrant fruit and a spicy, peppery finish. Drink 2020-2025 Alc N/A
TOP VALUE Domaine Faiveley,
La Framboisière, Mercurey 91 A textbook Mercurey from this muchimproved Nuits-St- Georges-based négociant. Fermented with 20% whole bunches and aged in 20% new wood, it shows good underlying focus of clove spice with sweet red cherry and raspberry fruit. Drink 2019-2023 Alc N/A
Mâconnais
Château de Fuissé, Le Clos, Pouilly
Fuissé 95 If you only buy one Pouilly-Fuissé in 2017, this should be it (followed by the château’s Les Combettes). It’s a world-class wine from old vines on a superb site. Elegant, focused yet profound, it has everything in proportion, with flavours of grapefruit, pear and subtle baking spices. Brilliantly exciting. Drink 2020-2026 Alc 13.5%
Château des Rontets, Les Birbettes,
Pouilly- Fuissé 94 Made with the oldest vines from the château, planted from the 1920s. It’s a rich, dense wine with effortless complexity. Floral and complete, it has plenty of sappy acidity and minerality with understated oak. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 13%
Christophe Cordier, Ménétrières,
Pouilly- Fuissé 94 From one of the best sites in Pouilly-Fuissé, soon to be promoted to premier cru. Toasty and rich, with layers of sweet spice, honeyed concentration and supporting acidity, ending with a chalky bite. Cordier’s Vers Cras and En Carmentrant are just as good. Drink 2019-2024 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Dominique Cornin,
Chevrières, Pouilly- Fuissé 94 The Cornin’s top Pouilly-Fuissé, from a village soon to be elevated to premier cru status – and rightly so. As ever, the oak is adroitly handled, complementing pithy, racy Chardonnay fruit with a hint of vanilla spice. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13%
Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Manganite,
Mâcon- Cruzille 94 I don’t wish to damn this wine with faint praise, but it’s up there with the world’s best Gamays. Sourced from old vines and made without sulphur, the 90% whole bunches add texture and peppery spice to fine raspberry and red cherry fruit and savoury tannins. Drink 2020-2028 Alc 13%
Bourgogne
TOP VALUE Bret Brothers, Aligato
Cuvée Zen, Bourgogne Aligoté 92 This biodynamically-farmed Aligoté is barrel fermented in old wood. It’s pithy, crunchy and wonderfully transparent, with flavours of white pepper, apple and citrus peel followed by a bracing finish. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 12.5%
TOP VALUE Albert Bichot, Secret de
Famille Chardonnay 90 This large and always enjoyable cuvée marries fruit from Meursault, PulignyMontrachet and St-Romain. Lightly wooded, balanced, spicy and mineraledged. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13% TOP VALUE Olivier Leflaive, Les Sétilles 90 A commendably reliable cuvée from vineyards in Rully, Meursault, PulignyMontrachet and the Hautes Côtes. Lightly wooded and appealingly fresh with citrus zing. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
Clos des Vignes du Maynes, Cuvée
Auguste 93 Burgundy’s first organic vineyard, planted in the 1950s. Unfiltered, unsulphured and lightly oaked, 90% whole bunches add
spice and texture to delicate, floral fruit. It’s not cheap, but justifies its price-tag. A revelation! Drink 2020-2024 Drink 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Duroché 91 Supple and appealingly aromatic Pinot from Gevrey is bright, balanced and lightly oaked with the finesse typical of the Duroché wines. A classic 2017 at its youthful best. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine François Lamarche, Bourgogne Hautes- Côtes de
Nuits 91 Delicate and refined, showing subtle reduction and real freshness of red cherry and pomegranate. No new oak. Sourced from a 1.53ha parcel above VosneRomanée. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 12.8%
TOP VALUE Domaine François Lumpp,
La Paulée 91 From young vines in Givry, this is highly aromatic with well-integrated oak, 70% new. It’s juicy and textured, with crunchy fruit, balancing acidity and a spring in its step. Drink 2020-2023 Alc 13%
TOP VALUE Domaine Lafarge, L’Exception, Bourgogne
Passetoutgrains 91 From a co-planted, 89-year-old parcel of equal parts Gamay and Pinot Noir, close to Meursault. It’s elegant, sappy and refined, with caressing tannins and fresh, tangy cherry and raspberry fruit flavours.
Drink 2019-2024 Alc 12.5%