Decanter

Navigating the Balkans: Gilby’s guide to the best reds (continued)

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7 Cokot, Radovan, Serbia 2015 91 N/A UK +381 63 831 2512 This tiny and impressive new-wave garage winery has been busy reinventin­g Serbia’s native Prokupac grape. This wine has inviting aromas of black cherry, forest fruits and spicy oak. The palate shows good depth, textured grainy tannins and a long finish. Drink 2019-2019 Alc 14% 8 Damjanić, Clemente, Istria, Croatia 2013 91 £ 24.99-£ 27.50 Croatian Fine Wines, Novel Wines Istria is home to some classy Merlot and Cabernet wines, but here those internatio­nal varieties are given a local twist with a touch of Teran in the blend. Inviting spicy cherry and plum aromas, lovely vivid, ripe and concentrat­ed fruit, plus fine-grained tannins. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13% 9 Guerila, Selection Barbera, Vipava Valley, Slovenia 2016 90 £ 19.50 Alliance Wine, Carruthers & Kent, Connolly’s Barbera has a long history in Vipava and this appetising biodynamic version is selected from one of the highest vineyards in the valley. It shows fresh loganberry and cherry notes with a hint of wild herbs, crunchy acidity and polished tannins.

Drink 2019-2020 Alc 14% 10 Pasji Rep, Pinot Noir, Vipava Valley, Slovenia 2016 89 £ 20.95 Stone Vine & Sun Vipava’s breezy climate suits Pinot Noir. Samo Premrn has recently taken over from his father and is focusing on elegance in his wines. This refined version shows youthful raspberry fruit, gentle tannins and good length. From organic vineyards using natural yeast. Drink 2019-2020 Alc 14% 11 Matošević, Grimalda Red, Istria, Croatia 2015 88 £ 26.99 Eton Vintners, Grape to Grain, Liberty Wines, Pavilion Wine, Swig, The Fine Wine Co, The Wine Reserve, Vinum Ivica Matošević has been a force of nature in putting Croatian Istria’s wines back on the map. His singlevine­yard Grimalda Red adds a touch of Teran to a Merlot core for a fresh, appetising and food-friendly wine, full of raspberry fruit with a hint of wild herbs. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 14%

12 Vinarija Citluk, Blatina de Broto, Mostar, Bosnia- Herzegovin­a

2016 87 £ 12.50 Croatian Fine Wines A smooth, garnet-toned, pale red with a touch of Pinot Noir style about it. It’s plummy with notes of kirsch, chocolate and roast coffee, gentle tannins and nicely drinkable balance.

Drink 2019-2020 Alc 13%

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