The verdict

The freshness that characterised this vintage on release is still evident eight years on. Stephen Brook and his panel report on a tasting of enjoyable wines just hitting their stride

Our panel was familiar with this vintage, thus predisposed to enjoy the wines. And for the most part we did. It was interesting to reflect on whether the vintage entailed a loss of Californian typicity. Piotr Pietras MS was adamant it did not: ‘The wines have a refreshing character, but they are still fruit-driven and recognisable as Californian Cabernet. What I find admirable is that they have a real consistency of style. They’re fresh and balanced, and thus have good ageing potential. Nor was the oak obtrusive.’ He particularly admired the two wines from Sta Cruz Mountains and, among the Napa wines, those from Oakville.

Alex Hunt MW agreed. ‘Yes, the oak use and the extraction seemed proportionate. Often with a tasting of big reds like Californian Cabernet, the tannins build up on the palate and that can distort one’s appreciation of the wines, especially those at the end of the flight. That wasn’t the case here.

‘In part that’s because the alcohols were on average a bit lower than usual.’ Indeed, they ranged from 13% to 15%, though the lax US labelling laws mean it’s hard to be certain what the true alcohol level is in any wine. But there were fewer wines than usual with discernible alcohol on the palate.

Hunt was not entirely satisfied by the styles of some of the wines. ‘I find the character of the vintage is under-represented. For me the least satisfactory wines were those that tried to subvert the fresher style that the vintage delivered. There were wines that were both high in alcohol without tasting fully ripe.

‘I suspect that’s because those wineries pushed the ripeness levels excessively, hoping to end up with a big, rich, overly Californian style that wasn’t true to the conditions in 2010. If you’re known for a certain style, then it’s tempting, if not wise, to try to impose it, whatever the vintage. The best wines were made by producers who were comfortable with the hand nature had dealt them.’

There is often said to be a clear divide in Napa, and parts of Sonoma, between wines produced from vineyards on or near the valley floor and those from mountain sites at higher elevations where climatic conditions tend to be different. However, we broadly found quality to be evenly divided between the two locations. It was also agreed that most wines were at that attractive stage when they could be drunk soon or cellared for a few more years – even for another decade. There was little of the blowsiness and jamminess that can cause an initially appealing wine to collapse after a few years in bottle.

American wine lovers – and those, Pietras reminded us, from countries more recently captivated by fine wine such as Russia – tend to drink wines such as these too young. They relish the beguiling exuberance of a young Cal Cab, but may miss out on the complex nuances that come with age.

Hunt took up the theme: ‘Napa tends to play safe by making wines that are enjoyable on release, for which there are sound commercial reasons. But with 2010 I applaud those who didn’t opt for immediate accessibility, and were happy to let the wine gradually acquire more complex notes, and to allow the natural balance of the vintage to emerge with time.’

It’s clear that 2010 won’t appeal to all Cal Cab lovers, as it is far from stereotypical. But those who enjoy freshness, elegance, and balance will find a great deal to relish, and the best wines will go the distance.

‘I applaud those happy to let the natural balance of the vintage emerge with time’ Alex Hunt MW