Gaia’s pick: a dozen of the best from Barolo
Elio Altare, Vigna Bricco Cerretta, Riserva 2012
97 £ 103-£ 120 Justerini & Brooks, Millésima Altare magnificently interprets the Serralunga cru in this modern classic, which spent 24 months in barrique (20% new). There is exhilarating progression in this wine and a never-ending finish. The tannins are tight and there are menthol notes, anise and liquorice. Cellarworthy. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 14.5%
Vietti, Lazzarito 2014
97 £ 190 Asset Wines, Bibendum, Exel A majestic cru (Serralunga), with 30 months in barriques and large barrels. Offers unmistakable personality in a ‘ third way’ Barolo. Aromatic, tight-knit fruit, forest floor, tobacco and liquorice. Tannins in a state of grace. Assured longevity. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 14%
E Pira & Figli, Chiara Boschis, Mosconi 2014
96 £ 57 Asset Wines, Enotria& Coe Chiara Boschis’ take on Monforte’s Wagnerian terroir translates it into a minerally, fruit-driven symphony with refined tannins and graceful flavour. This is a brilliant compromise between acidity and sweetness. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 14%
3 Damilano, Cannubi 2014 95
£68 Winetraders Cannubi’s superb terroir coupled with more than a century of winemaking experience enabled Damilano to negotiate the challenges of the complex 2014 vintage. This has a superb, richly aromatic nose and generous palate, tobacco leaves and cacao. Succulent tannins and a well-balanced, longlasting finish. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 14.5%
GD Vajra, Bricco delle Viole 2014
94 £60.60-£80 Asset Wines, Exel, Farr Vintners, Fortnum & Mason, Hedonism, Liberty Wines, Whole Foods Market Kensington 50 days of maceration and 30 months in large barrels sculpt a floral, sapid and caressing Barolo of rare nobility. Full, with round tannins. A rich, refreshing style with huge drinkability – and ready now. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 13.5%
Réva, Ravera 2013 94
£ 56 Friarwood A kaleidoscope of spices and forest-floor aromas, vibrant acidity and silky tannins. Superb structure and a finish marked by the return of cigar box and plum notes. Stylistic rigour and measured use of long macerations and large wood make this an instant classic. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 14.5%
4 Cascina Fontana 2013 93
£48 Berry Bros & Rudd Mario Fontana blends grapes from Castiglione Falletto and La Morra, the former bringing power, the latter softness, the wine spending three years in large barrels and concrete. Rose and jasmine aromas and a balanced palate. Displays what Barolo lovers would term pure classicism. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14%
Fratelli, Alessandria 2014
93 £ 35 Berry Bros & Rudd, Howard Ripley Vittore Alessandria merges tradition, blending crus and using large barrels, with modernity – stainless steel tanks and medium to short fermentations. The result is splendid: a carpet of flowers and herbs filling the glass and irresistible drinkability. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14%
Renato Ratti, Marcenasco 2015 93
£ 52 John E Fells In 1965, Renato Ratti created the ‘ Marcenasco style’, now skilfully being continued by his son Pietro. The cherry scents, cedar, liquorice and sinuous palate faithfully reflect the velvety terroir of La Morra. Both dynamic and drinkable. Drink 2020-2040 Alc 13.5%
Borgogno, Riserva 2011 92
£72 Astrum Wine Cellars Borgogno has been synonymous with tradition since its foundation in 1761. This is a blend of three vineyards: Cannubi, Liste and Fossati. Long fermentation in concrete, followed by maturation in large barrels for six years, has created a solid and spicy wine that is well rounded yet firm. Drink 2019-2040 Alc 15%
5 Ca’ Viola, Sottocastello di Novello 2013
92 £ 58 Haynes Hanson & Clark Beppe Caviola aims for elegance and drinkability and hits the target thanks to the careful use of large barrels and post-ageing concrete. Harmonious and velvety, cherry and spice aromas with a round finish. Drink 2019-2035 Alc 14.5%
Serradenari- Giulia Negri, Serradenari 2015
91 £44.95 Corney & Barrow A high, cool microclimate and the blue marl at the top of La Morra give wild strawberry notes and fortifying acidity. Already refined, though the tannins are concentrated. Drink 2020-2035 Alc 14%