Garner’s picks: take a fresh (or dried) look at Valpolicella
Ca’ la Bionda, CasalVegri, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto 2015
96 £ 18-£ 21 Bat and Bottle, Top Selection Made using fresh grapes only. Spicy red cherry nose with notes of mint and fennel. An exquisite palate that’s lean, lithe and graceful with deep, peppery and smoky-toned red fruit characters sustained by precise acidity. Stunning. Drink 2023-2030 Alcohol 14%
1 Tedeschi, Maternigo, Valpolicella Superiore, Veneto 2015 95
£ 24.99 John E Fells Using extra-ripe grapes from the Impervio vineyard high above Mezzane, this is a wine with real swagger. Glorious and beautifully balanced mix of freshand dried-fruit aromas and flavours. Exceptional. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 15%
Monte Dall’Ora, San Giorgio, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto 2015 94
£ 16.49 Beacon Wines, Les Caves de Pyrene Fresh grapes only. It’s hard to believe this is their first vintage from rented vines high up at San Giorgio. Magnificent aromas of woodsmoke, aniseed, clove and black pepper and intense, juicy red fruit flavours. Drink 2020-2027 Alc 13%
3 Antolini, Persegà, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto 2016 93
N/A UK www. antolinivini. it Fresh grapes only. Great authenticity here: pure and focused fruit characters underscored by bracing acidity. Vibrant and uncompromising: love it or hate it, but try it! Drink 2022-2028 Alc 14%
Novaia, I Cantoni, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto 2015 93
N/A UK www. novaia. it Made with semi-dried or extra ripe grapes. Scented raspberry and black cherry nose with more than a hint of violets. Broad, fleshy and voluptuous palate shaped by good acidity. Great poise and already very approachable. Drink 2020-2025 Alc 14%
4 Speri, Sant’Urbano, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Veneto 2015 93
£ 21.29 Tannico Made with semi-dried or extra ripe grapes. Intense and spicy nose with clove, black pepper and tobacco notes to the fore. Caramelised fruit flavours with notes of crème brûlée, mint and pepper. Beautifully balanced but needs time. Drink 2022-2030 Alc 14%
Rubinelli Vajol, Valpolicella Classico, Veneto 2017
92 £ 17.09 (2014) Wimbledon Wine Cellar Fresh grapes only. Super-fresh in character, showing fragrant red cherry and herb aromas. Poised and charming on the palate, with sensations of cherry, raspberry, tarragon and woodsmoke. Lovely acidity. A delightful textbook example. Drink 2019 Alc 13%
Gamba, Le Quare, Valpolicella Classico, Veneto 2017
91 £ 10.99 Italyabroad Fresh grapes only. A profusion of hedgerow fruit aromas: herb-brushed blackberry, damson and sloe. Ripe but zingy with lots of energy. Assertive and classic. Drink 2019 Alc 13%