Top high street Italian reds
There’s no shortage of options on UK retailers’ lower shelves, but spend a little more on an Italian wine and you’ll be rewarded by a leap in quality. Andy Howard MW picks 30 of the best, all priced at £10-£15
IT COULD BE argued that wine consumers today have a much better choice in terms of quality, value and diversity than they did five or 10 years ago. The range of countries, regions, grape varieties and styles is mind-boggling.
Italian wines are at the forefront of diversity, so this tasting was an ideal way to look at a range of red wines between the £10 and £15 price points. Quality is generally very good at this level – more than 50% of wines submitted achieved 90 points or more (Highly Recommended), with one wine rated outstanding (95 points).
Italy has come a long way in wine terms in the past 30 years. once associated with leafy and astringent Chianti, thin and simple Valpolicella, or rugged, tannic barolo, today’s Italian wines are as diverse as the country itself. Regions are developing, winemaking practices have leapt forward, and quality is higher now than ever before. but why should consumers spend their hard-earned cash on Italian red wines, as opposed to equally worthy choices at similar prices from Spain, France or Australia?
For me, the answer lies in the strength of Italy’s native grapes. In his book Native Grape Varieties of Italy, Ian D’Agata suggests there are 377 genetically different varieties in commercial use in Italy – almost a third of the worldwide total, according to Wine Grapes (Robinson, Harding & Vouillamoz, 2012), which cites a figure of 1,368 varieties. Italy has more native grape types than France, Spain and Greece (the next three countries) combined. And this is just those in commercial production and scientifically identified – the overall number of Italian native grapes is probably in the thousands.
As mentioned, our tasting focused on wines at £10-£15. Consumers should expect good to very good quality, with distinct grape and terroir characters on show. In nearly every case, wines are ready to drink, but can be kept for a few years if stored well. better-known varieties (Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, Corvina, barbera, Nero d’Avola, Primitivo, Aglianico) dominated the tasting, as expected. In addition, there was a welcome number of less common grapes, with lacrima and Dolcetto (Piedmont), Corvinone (Veneto), Canaiolo (Tuscany), Gaglioppo (Calabria) and Tai (Grenache from Veneto) showing promise.
one third of the wines were produced in the Veneto (not surprising given this region’s influence in Italian wine production), with 25% of Tuscan origin. Sicily was somewhat under-represented, with only one Etna wine submitted – a pity as there are many good examples in this mid-tier price bracket. There was a strong showing for Valpolicella Ripasso – five out of seven wines being Highly Recommended. This is currently a highperforming DoCG and consumers can be confident that most Ripasso wines will deliver lots of interest and enjoyment.
It was also encouraging to see how well some cheaper Aglianicos performed. This tannic variety, which thrives in Campania and basilicata, can be very aggressive if not handled well. It seems winemakers are really starting to master this fragrant, long-lived variety – known as the ‘Nebbiolo of the south’ for good reason.
on this showing, consumers can be confident in finding many high-quality, good-value Italian reds on the uK high street. The best combine diversity with a dash of Italian style: lots of drinking pleasure ahead.
‘At £10-£15, consumers should expect good to very good quality, with distinct grape and terroir characters on show’
1 Gianni Tessari, Tai Rosso, Colli Berici, Veneto 2016 95
£ 13.95 Jeroboams An interesting alternative take on Grenache, this shows some soft, luscious red fruit notes on the palate, combined with firm tannins and underpinned with attractive bright acidity. Subtle oak ageing adds an extra dimension with a rich mix of spices evident. Very good, with freshness and complexity. Tai from the Veneto is one of Italy’s best kept secrets. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 13%
2 Domìni Veneti, La Casetta, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore, Veneto 2016
94 £ 14.99 Majestic Profound, inky dark plum hue. Complex, dusky aromas of black cherry fruits with some leafy notes. Complex and rich on the palate, there is lots of structure here – with some hints of new wood and firm yet ripe tannins. Although drinking well now, this has the potential to age extremely well for a number of years. An excellent Classico Superiore. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 14%
3 Nero Oro, Rosso Riserva, Sicily 2015 94
£ 12.99 Majestic, North South Wines Generous and mouthfilling, with oodles of fragrant, sweet fruit. The Frappato element in this Nero d’Avola-dominated blend shines through, adding extra levels of flavour. Good density, fresh and clean on the palate with some good length to finish. Great fun – not hugely complex but plenty going on and chock-full of individuality. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 14%
4 Cantina Valpantena, Marks & Spencer, Valpolicella Ripasso, Veneto 2016 93
£ 11 Marks & Spencer Deep colours in the glass, lots of concentration here with ripe black fruits and attractive fruit sweetness adding extra layers of interest. A very good example of Ripasso wth spicy notes, ripe fruit, crisp acidity, elegant oak and lots of Italian warmth. Has further ageing potential. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13.5%
5 Firriato, Le Sabbie dell’Etna, Etna Rosso, Sicily 2016 93
£ 12.99 Waitrose A lightly fragrant Etna wine with pale colour, this surprises as one anticipates a light wine, but it actually has good concentration and depth. Typically perfumed, there are some enticing floral notes, mineral flavours on the palate, spice and lingering acidity. A southern Italian red that is more intellectual than many. Will keep. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 14%
6 La Biòca, Stërmà, Nebbiolo d’Alba Superiore, Piedmont 2016 93
£ 14.95 Jeroboams A Nebbiolo with serious intent: plenty of oak, with a concentrated palate and lots of depth. Misses out at the moment on some of the ethereal, lifted notes that characterise Nebbiolo, but will improve with another year or two in bottle. Acidity and tannins are evident, as you would expect, combinated with dark fruit, spice and mineral notes on the finish. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13%
7 Nottola, Rosso di Montepulciano, Tuscany 2016 93
£ 13.95 Jeroboams Attractive, fleshy, dark red fruits dominate the palate, with quite a lot of structure on show. Good combination of ripe fruit, tannin and oak that shows more density than many. Finishes with some leafy, slightly medicinal notes that add interest. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
8 Tenuta Trerose, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva, Tuscany 2013
93 £ 11.99 Co- op Very good value for a Riserva Vino Nobile. A little dry on the palate but does show good density, and typical Sangiovese characters. Spicy, dark red berry and cherries dominate, with lots of acidity and tannins. There’s some good evolution, so this Vino Nobile is ready to drink and will provide lots of pleasure as an accompaniment to the right food. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
9 Villa Cafaggio, Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2015 93
£ 13.49 Waitrose Attractive Chianti Classico with a good balance between ripe dark cherry fruit, firm (but ripe) tannins and fresh acidity. Still youthful, this will mellow and improve with a further year in bottle. Very good purity and typical Classico character. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13%
10 Cantine Belisario, Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, Marche 2017 92
£ 12.75-£ 14.49 Liberty Wines, Oddbins, Valvona & Crolla This shows all of the expected, pronounced floral, perfumed notes which Lacrima traditionally displays. Shows a deep, dark and impenetrable hue in the glass, and there is plenty of lift on the nose. With its bright black cherry flavours on the palate and a slightly bitter finish, this is distinctive and different – a very typical Lacrima. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
11 Cantina Valpantena, Tesco Finest, Valpolicella Ripasso, Veneto 2016 92
£ 11 Tesco Good Valpolicella Ripasso. There is a lot of extra complexity here allied to the ripe, fruity Valpolicella characters underneath. Dark red berry fruits and a touch of dark plum, and there are some ripe tannins here, combining well with some nicely integrated oak. Finishes with an attractive sweetness. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13.5%
12 La Guardiense, Janare Lùcchero Aglianico, Sannio, Campania 2014
92 £ 14.50 Jeroboams Rich, ripe and generous example of Aglianico from Campania. Dark cherry and damson fruits, well-integrated oak flavours, plenty of spice and character. On the nose, the wine has a very attractive perfumed lift with hints of rose petal. Fleshy palate, generous, plush. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
13 Messapi, Marks & Spencer, Aglianico del Vulture, Basilicata 2016 92
£ 11 Marks & Spencer A wine that shows restraint, with lifted, floral notes allied to good concentration on the palate, fresh acidity and some firm but ripe tannins. A youthful Aglianico which can be enjoyed now, or kept for several years. Drink 2020-2024 Alc 13%
14 Scacciadiavoli, Montefalco Rosso, Umbria 2015 92
£ 12.95 The Wine Society A deep, layered and concentrated example, this has lots of structure, tannins, firm grip and older oak character to complement the dark red cherry fruits. Quite drying in the mouth, this is a wine to enjoy with rich meat dishes: great with roasted red meats. Drink 2019-2023 Alc 14%
15 The Wine Society, The Society’s, Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore, Veneto 2016 92
£10.50 The Wine Society Showing hints of ageing in the glass, this is a complex Valpolicella Ripasso with good levels of grip, dark red berry fruits and attractive sweetness on the finish. There is good concentration and depth on the palate, with a lengthy finish. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13.5%
16 Valdellövo, Bade Rosso, Veneto 2011 92 £ 14.99 Cadman Fine Wines
Deep, dark and brooding, the Cabernet Sauvignon dominates the nose and palate. Austere tannins are evident, slightly drying and a little green, but there are plenty of blackcurrant conserve characters on the palate to balance this out. An interesting, slightly leftfield option, that seems to model itself on Right Bank Bordeaux. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
17 Bibbiano, Di Fattoria, Chianti Classico, Tuscany 2014 91 £ 14.95 Co- op
Some ripeness here (despite being 2014), and there is plenty of dark cherry and plum character on the palate. Fresh acidity, a little tannic grip, this is well-balanced with nice purity, and shows typical Sangiovese notes. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13%
18 Ciabot Berton, Fisetta, Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2016 91 £ 14.95 Jeroboams
Rich, full-bodied, plenty of dark black fruit on show, cleverly combined with a firm framework of tannins and lively acidity. Not hugely complex, this is a good example of what can often be a difficult grape variety to get right. Drinking well now but can keep. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
19 Masi, Campofiorin, Rosso del Veronese, Veneto 2015 91
£ 12.99 Waitrose An attractive, spicy, fruity red with lots of Italian character. Quite notable tannins underpin the juicy palate, but they are ripe and not green. A hint of smoky dark plum fruit on the nose, crisp acidity and an elegant finish make this a red with lots of interest. Drink 2020-2022 Alc 13%
20 Recchia, Waitrose in Partnership, Valpolicella Ripasso Classico Superiore, Veneto 2016 91
£ 12.99 Waitrose Good concentration and a deep colour in the glass. The ripe, jammy fruit somewhat dominates the structure and character of Valpolicella Ripasso. Very good purity of flavour, ripe tannins, attractive oak – there is a lot to like here for lovers of fruit-forward Italian reds. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 14.5%
21 Sette Muri, Brindisi Riserva 2014 91 £10 Tesco Dark red and black fruits on the palate with lots of sunny, ripe character on
show. A full-bodied Negroamaro with dark cherry character and a touch of Black Forest gâteau and chocolate notes to add extra interest. Smooth palate, with tannins evident but ripe and generous. An enjoyable, fresh and juicy southern Italian red. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 14%
22 Allegrini, Valpolicella, Veneto 2017 90 £ 11.50-£ 16.25 Drinkmonger, Harvey Nichols,
The Wine Society Complexity on the nose with dark plum and berry fruit characters. Bright, fresh and leafy, there is plenty to like here. Not complicated, but a Valpolicella with good weight and extra layers of flavour, finishing with a little green edge to the tannins. Drink 2019-2020 Alc 13%
23 Bel Colle, Dolcetto d’Alba, Piedmont 2017 90
£ 13.50 Jeroboams Light in body, there is plenty of upfront, uncomplicated fruit on show here. Ready to drink, showing lots of cherry fruit notes, fresh and lively acidity, and a bite of tannin on the finish. At its peak now – and none the worse for that. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13%
24 Morisfarms, Mandriolo Rosso, Maremma Toscana, Tuscany 2016
89 £ 11.50 Jeroboams Showing almost a New World style on the nose, there is plenty of dark black fruit on show here. Lacks a little density on the palate, but there is plenty of freshness and lift. A good introduction to the wines of Maremma, with a crisp finish and good length. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13%
25 The Wine Society, The Society’s Exhibition, Chianti Classico, Tusany 2015 89
£ 12.50 The Wine Society Sporting an unusual and slightly medicinal nose, this Chianti Classico has lots of structure on the palate, revealing ripe red cherry fruits with a framework of tannin, spice and oak. There is plenty of extract on show here – needs some time to mellow and soften. Revisit in a couple of years. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 14%
26 Feudo Disisa, Nero d’Avola, Terre Siciliane, Sicily 2016 88
£ 14.95 Jeroboams Deep, dark, black fruit dominates here, supported by good application of oak. Lacks a little density on the palate, but it’s well made and drinking well now. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
27 Tenuta Novare, Valpolicella Ripasso, Veneto 2015 88
£ 14.95 Co- op A restrained, leafier take on Valpol Ripasso, there is complexity of flavour here with spice, warm red fruits and some notable tannins, without any great weight or concentration on the palate. Has an attractive, lifted character but lacks a little density. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13%
28 Villa Borghetti, Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore, Veneto 2016 88
£ 13.99 Majestic Lots of fleshy red and black fruits on the palate with jammy characters as well as fresh fruit. Uncomplicated for a Superiore, but finishes with some firm tannins that call for a main meal. Drink 2019-2020 Alc 13.5%
29 Coffele, Valpolicella, Veneto 2017 87 £10.50 The Wine Society
Light, quite simple and juicy with fresh red berry fruits. There is no great depth or complexity here, but this shows the lighter, easier-drinking side of Valpolicella well. Ready to drink; perhaps a bit expensive for the concentration on offer. Drink 2019-2020 Alc 12.5%
30 Corte Ibla, Nero d’Avola, Terre Siciliane, Sicily 2016 87
£ 12.50 Marks & Spencer, North South Wines Lively dark fruit characters. Lacks a little density and concentration but there’s lots of freshness. Just a tad simple for this price level. Drink 2019-2021 Alc 13.5%